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THE MANUAL 

ON 

BARBERING, 

HAIRDRESSING, MANICUR 

ING, FACIAL MASSAGE, 

ELECTROLYSIS AND 

CHIROPODY 

AS TAUGHT IM 



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MAHIWI retPftRK TMi AmEnriCi A/ID SJlDiS mt ffljAMIAU SifIT POST BUI) fo« .|« 






JL| THE 1^ 

OF COLLEGES 



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BY A. B. MOLER 



PRICE $1.00 



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LIBRARY of CONGRESS 
One Copy deceived 

JAN 27 1906 

Cop^jri^nt tiitry 

OUSS (Z ^^c. No, 
' ^CCPY b! 



COPYRIGHT 1906 
BY 

A. B. MOIvKR 



C 



PREFACE. 

IN the pages following- it has been my intention to 
illustrate and present a set of rules that will at 
all times be a guide, both while learning and after 
completing the trades. I have tried to present a sys- 
tem thorough and simple, illustrating in detail the 
requirements for the real artist and the training 
necessary to familiarize them with the technical 
details of the profession 

By reason of my eight years constant teaching and 
my fifteen years of service in the work, I feel that 
no one has had a better opportunity to practice and 
study the work that I now lay before you. 

I hope to make this book of more than ordinary 
service, and by following its instructions closely, 
combined with the advantages our colleges offer, 
there is no chance for failures. 



INDEX. 

Page No. 

Part 1. Physical and Mental Requirements . . . 9 — 10 

Part 2. Selection and Care of Tools 11 — 23 

Part 3. Honing- and Stropping . 24 — 29 

Part 4. Shaving- 29—39 

Part 5. Hair Cutting- 39—49 

Part 6. Beard Trimming 5'^— 54 

Part 7. Shampoo, Miscellaneous 55 — 69 

Parts. Men's Facial Massag^e 70—112 

BOOK IT. 

Ivadies' Hairdressing- 7 

Furniture and Arrang-ement of Establishments. 9 — 16 

Selection and Care of Tools 16 — 21 

Combing-, Dressing-, Shampooing, etc 21 — 42 

Marcel Wave 42—40 

Dyeing-, Bleaching-, Etc 46 — 58 

Scalp Massag-e , 58 — 64 

Formulas and Price List 64 — 67 

Hair Work 67—91 

Manicuring 91 — 104 

Facial Massage 104—126 

Electrolysis 126—141 

Chiropody 141—162 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 



PART I. 



PHYSICAL AND ME^NTAL REQUIREMENTS 
OF THE BARBER. 

In considering- the idea of becoming- a barber, the 
first question that presents itself is: What are the 
requirements necessary in order to insure success 
after laboring- at this work? Will my nervous sys- 
tem permit of handling- the razor? Will the nature 
of work I have done in the past bar me from this 
profession? Are my mental propensities such thatthey 
will allow me to wait upon others with patience and 
with solicitude for their welfare? The question is 
often asked by those preparing- to take up the work: 
"Will I make a barber?" There is but one answer to 
this, and that is, have you patience and energy to 
practice diligently at the work until you haye thor- 
oughly mastered it, providing- you have at your dis- 
posal the opportunity for constant practice and the 
assistance of skillful instructors? 

There is no part of the barber trade that is impos- 



10 THE BARBERS' MANUAI^. 

sible for anyone with ordinary ability . No man is too 
nervous to take up this trade as it is part of your 
education while a student to overcome your nervous 
temperament. Proper practice (of which we shall 
Pfive you a description in the following pages) is sure 
to overcome all disadvantages in this line, but we 
would advise that no person take up this work who 
has not first made up his mind to become a public 
servant, to be patient and painstaking with custo- 
mers, and to be always pleasant and agreeable. 

This is not a work that requires any special adapt- 
ation, but like every other trade that is mechanical, 
it is one that requires practice. Some will tell you 
that you never can become a barber if you are not 
gifted with particular talents, but it has been demon 
strated that the most awkward beginners often make 
the most graceful graduates. Grace and ease of mo- 
tion are acquired by the continued using of certain 
muscles. 

Good taste has much to do with proper hair cutting- 
and the different styles of this work must necessarily 
be a study. No man is naturally gifted with ability 
to trim hair gracefully, and each one must practice 
and study this work alike. While some are more apt 
and painstaking than others, every one can follow 
examples and directions laid down by instructors. 
Thus you see no person of sound mind and ordinary 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 11 

ability need exclude themselves from this trade if 
they are willing- to apply themselves to the work. 
Carelessness has no place in barber business, and 
no one will succeed either in business for himself or 
as a journeyman, who is not both caerfulwith his own 
appearance as well as that of his shop. 

PART II. 

SELECTION AND CARE OF TOOLS. 

Good tools in every mechanical trade have much 
to do with the tradesman's success. This is particu- 
larly true of the Barber Trade. No one can be a 
first-class workman without first-class tools kept in 
proper order. We too often find tradesmen trying to 
apply their skill with tools wholly unfit for their 
work. 

RAZORS. 

In the selection of a Barber's Outfit one of the 
most essential things is the Razor. Many times a 
perfect razor is condemned by the workman who has 
not given it a satisfactory trial or honed it down to a 
perfect edge. New razors are never honed in perfect 
condition, and every razor when first purchased 



12 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 

should be g-iven at least a week's trial before being 
condemned. No one can tell perfect steel from the 
looks of it unless it has been burned in grinding, 
which would cause it to show black spots, such spots 
as we sometimes find in a chisel or plow shear. In 
selecting a razor, as far as the steel is concerned, 
this is the only thing to look for. You will never be 
able to discoyer whether your razor is too soft or 
too hard from shaying and honing it, as there are too 
many conditions which afiFect a razor while in pro 
cess of sharpening. The fact that a razor sharpens 
slowly or that it takes time to bring it to an edge 
is no indication that the steel is hard or soft, one 
reason being a razor may have but little concave 
and therefore so much of the blade strikes the hone 
that it naturally cuts away slowly. It is an easy 
matter, however, to detect good or poor workmanship 
in the manufacture of this tool. 

A full concave razor is one that is hollowed out in 
such a manner as to leave the thinnest part of the 
blade between the back of the razor and the edge- 
This leaves a bulge or thicker part between the edge 
and the thinner portion of the razor, and can be 
detected by rubbing with finger and thumb down the 
sides of the blade as shown in the cut. 

A half and three-quarter concave have less of a 
' oUow grind as described. The full concave is the 



SIZES. 





% 





T 



CONCAVES. 





Full Three-fourths Half 



concavePIain grind 
POINTS. 







Squa 



i 



re point. Hollow point. Dutch point. Irish point. 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 13 

most expensive style of grinding' we have, and is only 
used in a high grade razor. It is the most desirable 




TESTING A CONCAVE. 

as it lightens the weight of the blade according to the 
width of it, and requires less honing and stropping 
to vsharpen the same. 

r a selecting tools never stick to certain brands 
simply because they have been recommended, for 
nearly every well known razor has cheap imitations. 
The five-eight size is ordinarily the most convenient 
and, although it is a little larger than most barbers 
prefer, the razor always grows smaller instead of 



14 THE BARBERS' MANUAL,. 

larger, and it is best to guard against getting them 
too small to begin with. 

SHEiARS. 

The quality of shears can be tested by a close ex- 
amination of the blades. In the cheaper qualities, 
or what is known as the steel laid, only a small por- 
tion of the blade is solid steel. This quality of 
shears is usually heavier in proportion to the length 
than those of the grade known as full steel. In 
nearly every cheap grade of shears, by examining the 
inside of the blades, you will see a different oolor in 
the metal at the point the iron and steel are welded 
together. A steel laid shear, as a rule, gives good ser- 
vice as long as it lasts, but it is not as durable as 
one made entirely of steel. The full steel shear usu- 
ally has thin, narrow blades that are sprung in such 
a shape that when the shears are closed the two 
blades only touch each other at the point. A non- 
experienced man is often liable to mistake this as a 
flaw, but a shear, in order to cut at the point, must 
have the spring or set. The patent burr fasteners as 
a rule are of little advantage, as a shear must be 
ground and set at intervals during its service. Never 
try to sharpen your own shears or tighten the 
screws as in this way you are apt to spring the 
blades and make them entirely useless-, it costs but 




THE GENUINE IMPORTED RAZOR. THE CHEAP IMITATION. 




FULL STEEL, FRENCH PATTERN. 




STEEL LAID, NICKLE HANDLE. 




CHEAPER GRADE, JAPAN HANDLE. 



THE BARBERS' MAKUAL,. IS 

a small amount to have your shears well ground, and 
well ground shears are as essential to good work as 
a properly ground razor Never give your shears to 
the street grinders, nor try them on any shear sharp- 
ening device. When a shear becomes too smooth, it 
can sometimes be wired a trifle by rubbing it over a 
rough hone or piece of steel, but this should not be 
praticed often. The blades must be roughed to a 
certain extent in order to keep the hair from slipping 

out when the blades come together. 

The cheaper grades of shears, as a rule have the 
black japanned handles, while the higher grades are 
nickel handled and highly polished. A seven, seven 
and one-half and eight inch shear are the most con- 
venient sizes for barbers' use. 



HONES. 

There are many different grades and qualities of 
hones, and no doubt the opinion of barbers varies in. 
regard to this article more than in regard to any 
other tool in the barber's kit. The German Water 
Hone is the oldest style, or the first razor hone used. 
They still are considered by many to be the best hone 
in the market. There is certainly nothing that will 
compare with them for the apprentice, as they cut 



16 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 

slow and neyer overhone, as does the coi,xser and 
faster cutting stones. It usually requires a little 
more time to cut a razor to an edge on this stone, 
but once to an edg-e it keeps it in the same condition 
without damaging- the blade. 

In using the oil or lather hone, more care should be 
taken to prevent "overhoning," for when the razor is 
honed to an edge, it will, with more honing, crumble 
or break away to what is known as the wire edge. 
The lather hones are of many different qualities and 
it is something of a gamble to get a perfect hone. 
They vary greatly in prices according to quality. 

The Swatty, the same as the lather stone, is fast 
cutting, and is probably ^.he hardest hone to work 
with although it brings a razor to an edge quickly. 
An apprentice would seldom be successful with this 
style of hone. They are highly recommended by the 
expert or old barber, but should never be recom- 
mended to a beginner. 

STROPS. 

Strops should always be used in pairs, canvas and 
leather. The canvas is the one you first apply to the 
razor and finish it with a smooth leather strop* 
Razors in constant stropping, on a leather strop be- 
come too smooth, and require a certain amount of use 



'if' 



T*l 







WATER 



OIL OR LATHER 



SWATY 




SHELL AND CANVAS, PADDr:D HANDLE. 




HORSE HIDE AND CANVAS PATENT SWIVEL. 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 

on the canvas. This is in order to roug-hen or draw 
out the edg-e, and when properly stropped they re- 
quire less honing-. The higher grade of canyas strop 
is made of seamless hose, and can be used on either 
side. You should be careful to keep canvas strops 
dry as dampness swells the grain and roughens the 
strop. The better quality is usually made of linen 
the smooth and tightly woven quality. The cheaper 
grades are sometimes made of canvas, and are known 
as the flat web. They are of a single thickness, less 
durable and can be used only on one side. Some 
cheaper grades are also made of cotton. Canvas strops 
in constant use gather dust and grit which should be 
cleaned off by applying a little lather and immedi- 
ately scraping it off with the blade of the shear, or a 
similar blunt instrument. Grit on a canvas strop will 
do much damage to a razor, and should be watched 
for closely. In breaking in a new strop, the grain 
should first be filled with beeswax or soap, and this 
should be rubbed in thoroughly with a bottle or a 
similar instrument. There is considerable labor at- 
tached to preparing,' a pair of strops. 

In selecting a leather strop, Russia leather is usu- 
ally most desirable, although the most expensiye, and 
is a tough, thick, serviceable leather. It is usually 
told by the smell, and by the grain on the back of 
the strop It requires some time to prepare a Rus- 



18 THE BARBERS' MANUAI*. 

sian leather strop for service, but when once broken 
in, it will last a lifetime, and is not easy to cut. The 
strop should be prepared by putting- thick lather on 
the surface, and rubbing- it in well, in the same man- 
ner as the canvas strop. From five to ten minutes 
should be spent on a Russia leather strop every 
day for two or three weeks. The labor required 
in preparing- this strop is worth more than the strop 
itself. Many old barbers possess strops worth from 
$5.00 to $25.00. A Russia leather improves with age_ 
A pig- skin strop is of the same nature, and should 
be broken in in the same way; it is most favored by 
some barbers, and although not quite as durable, it 
is more easily prepared. These strops are never made 
in cheap qualities, there being- but two grades, 
medium and heavy. 

The horsehide strop is made of many different 
qualities, and sells at different prices. The shell, or 
horsetail, is probably the best of this class. It is 
always smooth, never requires finishing or breaking 
in, and is of a thinner or lighter grade. This is the 
most durable of horsehide strops. The other quali- 
ties or cheaper g-rades are of a softer material, and 
usually draw or hang- to the razor in stropping-. 
This quality of strop usually requires more work to 
put a razor in condition, and they are less service- 




HIGH GKADE, IMPROVED SPRING. 




CHEAPER GRADE, OLD STYLE SPRING. 



THE BARBERS" MANUAL. 19 

able. They are easily cut and short lived. When 
they once begin to work rough, there .i" no remedy 
for them. 

CLIPPEiRS. 

Of the strictly high grade clippers there are but 
few brands to select from. Clippers are constantly 
changing and being improved upon, and like all 
classes of machinery, they soon become old style. 
Among the latest improvements there is one called 
the "pull spring." It is prompt in action, strong 
and serviceable, and can be adjusted to most any 
hand. This spring is found in but two brands of 
clippers. The adjusting blade made to cut different 
lengths is of little or no use, for its work is ragged 
and gives the hair the appearance of three or four 
weeks' growth. The only care that is necessary for 
this grade of clippers is that they should be kept well 
oiled and when once properly adjusted, should be 
left in that state. It is bad policy to readjust the 
machine, except when it must be taken apart and 
cleaned. The plates should be wiped off about once 
a month, or should be washed out without readjust- 
ing by working kerosene through them. Sewing ma- 
chine or bicycle oil is the best to use. This grade of 
machine can be made to cut two lengths by sim- 



30 THE BARBERS- MANUAIv. 

ply turning- it over iti the hand and using- it for the 
neck or "00" clipper. This saves the necessity of 
two pair of clippers. 

Among- the cheaper g-rades the brands are numer- 
ous and all about the same quality. Some have 
the spring-s in the handles, others have the concealed 
spring in the blades. They are so constructed that 
they will cut but one length, and in doing- the nicer 
part of the work it would be necessary to have a 
short or an "0" clipper besides the regulation length 
of an eigth inch. These clippers like the higher 
grade, should be thoroughly cleaned and oiled about 
once a month, or according to the amount of work 
being done. 

COMBS. 

In the selection of combs, the "hand made" bone 
comb is preferable; It should be a tapering comb of 
medium size, and one that can be well handled in 
long- or short hair. A neck comb is usually con- 
sidered unnecessary where the comb is tapered from 
a coarser to finer teeth. 

Aluminum combs are considered by some the most 
convenient, but there is an objection to this style of 
comb, as the teeth often come in contact with the 
blade of your shears. 






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CONVENIENT TOOL CASE FOR TRAVELING BARBERS. 



VH£ BARBERS' MANUAL. % 

Among: the cheaper grades are the "machine made" 
horn combs, which are usually more bluut and less 
convenient. The heavy rubber combs are of no ser- 
vice to the barber on account of their thickness. 

Celluloid combs are of no value, for in singeing^ 
hair they are liable to catch fire. 

Great care should be taken to keep a comb perfectly 
clean. Thread or string is very handy in cleaning it. 
Take a half dozen or dozen threads fastened at both 
ends and comb through them until teeth are thor- 
oughly cleaned. 

TOOI^ CASES. 

A tool case is not an absclute necessity, but is very 
conyenient for carrying or keeping in place your 
outfit. The best quality is leather and it should 
have a sufficient number of pockets to carry all tools 
of your outfit. The cheaper qualities are made of 
canvas and can be obtained in any size desired. 

JACKE^TS. 

No barber should work at the chair without a 
jacket, as it looks unprofessional and untidy to see 
a barber at a chair in his shirt sleeves or wearing the 
Did style apron. 

The better quality of jackets are made of duck aad 



22 THE BARBERS' MANUAL,. 

have sometimes striped pockets and collars, or they 
are often made up of black and white goods. Sleeve 
vests are worn some by barbers but are not as uni- 
versal as the regulation barber coat. 

Cheaper qualities are of drill. In selecting a j acket 
do not make the mistake of getting a waiter's jacket, 
which is a short coat of the same material, but without 
the convenient pockets of the barber's coat. Always 
select a jacket with a collar and with detachable 

buttons. 

HAIR BRUSHES. 

The above named articles are all that are necess^^y 
for a journey man's outfit, but in conducting a shop for 
yourself more tools are necessary and great care 
should be taken in selecting good bristle brushes for 
the hair. Barbers are often negligent as to the care 
of their brushes, allowing them to become dirty and 
greasy and unfit for use. A hair brush should be 
cleaned thoroughly, at least once a month. The best 
way of cleaning the brush is by strong ammonia wa- 
ter or sea foam, rubbing the preparation thoroughly 
through the bristles and with a coarse comb clean out 
all the dandruff, etc., from among the bristles. After 
the brush has been thoroughly cleansed and rinsed, 
tap it lightly on the bristles until dry. 

LATHER BRUSHES. 
The most serviceable and probably the best lather 




PLAIN WHITE BARBER JACKET. 




SLEEVE VEST. 




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RUBBKR FERRULE. 




CAMEL HAIR. 




NECK DUSTER FOR BRUSHING LOOSE HAIR 
AFTER CUTTING. 



THE BARBERS, MANUAL. ^ 

brushes are those whose bristles are set in vulcanized 
rubber. The soft camel hair brush is of no seryice 
to the barber as it becomes too soft when in con- 
stant use. 

leather brushes as well as cups should be thor- 
oug^hly rinsed before or after each shave. 

STERILIZING AND ANTISEPTIC SOLUTIONS. 

Sterilizing- your razor is a very important feature 
in the barber business, also the use of antiseptics for 
your brushes, cups and strops. In this care of tools, 
much neg-lect has been shown among" past members of 
the fraternity, oftentimes with disastrous results. 
Your patronag^e can be increased by strict attention 
to this one important feature. This process should 
be resorted to as often as seems necessary. After 
working oyer a sore face, or what we may term a 
syphilitic subject, wash your hands in a mild solution 
of Bichloride of Mercury. If you have no steam 
sterilizer, your razors can be dipped or boiled without 
injury to them in the same solution. 

Steam sterilizers are much preferable and can be 
secured as cheap as 75 cen.s. Plac6 your mugs, lather 
brushes and hair brushes in water at a temperature 
of a bout 150 degrees. Strops also may be treated the 
same way and afterwards oiled with carbonized vase- 
line. Strops will need this process very seldom. 



24 THIS BARBERS' MANUAL. 

PART III. 

HONING AND STROPPING. 

The sequel to a barber's success, as far as shaving" is 
concerned, lies in honing" and stropping- the razor. 
This is not a g^reat task when proper instructions are 
given or when care is taken to hone at the proper 
time or strop sufficiently while the razor is in use. 
No deep art or mystery lies in this part of the profes- 
sion as miny barbers who have never been properly 
taught are sometimes led to suppose. Many work- 
mei, good in every other part of the work, sel- 
dom haye a sharp razor, and again, no barber has be- 
come so proficient that at all times he has his razo^ 
sharp. There are so many different conditions of 
atmosphere, heat and cold, etc., which affect the edge 
of the razor that it is practically an impossibility to 
keep one razor always in condition, but there can be 
no plausible excuse for a man with two or three 
razors not having one of them always with a keen 
edge. 

HONING. 

No matter what hone is used, honing is always done 
in the same way and the same method of testing the 



THE BARBERS' MANUALc 



25 



edge is applied, but with each style of hone the edg-e 
has an entirely different feeling- and it is always best 
to become accustomed to one stone and learn the 
peculiarities of its work. Never try to hone a razor 
with a nick in it, nor with an extremely blunt edge, 
as it is impossible to keep a smooth, straight edge 
when it is necessary to cut the razor down to any 
extent. Razors in this condition should always be 




HONING. 

sent to the grinder with instructions as to what style 
af g-rind or concave is required. 

In beginning your work, tirst prepare your hone. In 
using- the water hone see that it is perfectly clean and 
free from dirt or grease, then wet the rubber with 
moderately warm water, also see that the hone is not 
extremely cold or hot, as the temperature will haye 
much to do in drawing out or extending the edge 



26 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 

of the blade. Prepare your hone with a thick grit 
or lather by rubbing the hone proper with the rub- 
ber and always keeping it moist. Lay the razor 
perfectly flat on the hone and draw toward the edge, 
diagonally from the heel to the point as shown in cut. 
Turn the razor on the back without lifting it from the 
hone and slide into position for the other side. Hold 
the razor with the first finger on the shank of the 
blade in such a way as to turn it freely in the hand 
and so that the entire length of the blade will be 
honed alike. It will require some practice to become 
handy in turning the razor. Work slowly and with 
some old useless razor until you have mastered the 
stroke. A slight mistake on the hone could easily 
ruin a high grade razor. 

Testing the edge of a razor is done by wetting the 
thumb or finger nail and drawing the edge of the 
razor over the thumb or nail with just enough heft 
to allow it to cut in or slide over the nail. If the 
razor has a blunt thick edge, it will slide over the 
nail without cutting. This will signify that it needs 
more honing to bring it to the proper condition. If 
the razor cuts into the nail irregularly with a rough, 
grating feeling this signifies that the razor has a 
rough, wiry edge and requires more honing. The 
razor, when in perfect condition, will draw into the 
»^ail with the keen smooth edge. You cannot be de- 




TESTING EDGE AFTER HONING. 




TESTING EDGE AFTER STROPPING. 




STROPPING. 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. Kf 

ceived in this test when you become sufficiently ac- 
quainted with the edge to detect the different feeling-s. 
This test should be used only in honing- and not in 
stropping-, as after the razor is stropped, it has an en- 
tirely different feeling and would slide over the nail 
as though greased. 

In using the swatty or lather hone, mix a thick 
lather and apply to the hone, always keeping it well 
moistened with the substance. 

It is not to be supposed that you will become a 
skillful honer without the necessary practice and in- 
struction, and much depends on the stropping after 
leaving the hone, A razor will not always take the 
same style of an edge. As stated, it sometimes de- 
pends on the atmosphere or heat and cold. If diffi- 
culty is met with in getting the required edge, it 
oftentimes is a benefit to lay the razor by for a short 
time and allow the temperature to make the change. 
At times five minutes work will do more for you in 
sharpening a razor than an hour at other times. 
Thus you will see no man is always master of this 
art. 

STROPPING. 

After a razor is properly honed it should be 
stropped yery little, if any, on the canvas strop. If 



2& THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 

a razor seems to haye taken too smooth an edg^e, 
it can be roughed a little with the canvas strop and 
then smoothed to the proper condition on the leather, 
or if a razor seems to be left a little too rough by the 
hone it sometimes can be stropped to a better condi- 
tion on the canyas. The main object being" to bring 
it to the keen, vet smooth edge. A razor can be 
smooth, and not keen and sharp or can be too 
jmooth, but never too sharp. 

Every barber has his pet razor, for with this par- 
ticular one he has learned the requirements in hon- 
ing" and stropping". Considerable practice is necessary 
to become easy and graceful in stropping". The razor 
should be held in such a way as to allow it to turn in 
the hand easily and always be wiped over the strop 
perfectly flat with back of blade as well as edge placed 
tight on the leather, Turn it on the back without 
lifting it from the strop, and as in honing, do this 
work slowly and carefully until you have become 
proficient in the motion. The best class of barbers 
never try to play tunes with their razor and strops 
as is often seen among those who care more for 
makine: a show than for the edge of the razor. More 
stropping is necessary with a freshly honed razor 
than one that has shaved a half dozen beards. A 
razor just off from the hone is usually a little rough 
and irritating to the face and should be first used on 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 29 

a ligrlit beard. It is poor policy for a barber to hone 
up all of his razors at once, or eveti more than one 
at a time, for it is necessary to have at least one 
razor always ready for any sort of beard that comcs 
in. It is sometimes good policy for a barber to have 
a strop filled with emery flour or razor paste. When 
the edgies become too smooth and you have no time 
for honing, a few strokes on the coarse strop will 
draw out the blunt edge. This should not be prac- 
ticed often, howeyer, and only with a razor that 
has shaved forty or fifty men without honing. 

Razors have been known to shave 500 men with 
stropping only and again the same razor would not 
hold an edge for a half dozen beards. It is not always 
the fault of the barber. 

PART IV. 

SHAVING. 

Shaving is an art. Proficiency in this work cannot 
be obtained without much practice, and while you 
will be benefitted much by following these rules, prac- 
tical demonstration is the most essential guide. 

In preparing a customer for a shave, first thor- 

ughly rinse the brush and cup with warm water to 

prevent the spreading of disease. A thick, creamy 



30 THE BARBERS' MANUA.L. 

lather should be mixed, just stiff enough to be handled 
nicely on the face. If left too thin, it is apt to run 
down the neck or on to the collar. Many barbers say 
it is impossible to learn even how to lather in the 
length of time our College proposes to teach the 
trade, and it is very true that some men do not learn 
this work well. While there is no skill to be dis- 
played in lathering, a barber must always be careful 
and painstaking in this work. The barber that will 
not be thoughtful enough to do this work should 
never need expect to claim custom, as this is the 
first impression upon the customer. The face should 
be lathered by applying the brush in a circular mo- 
tion, which allows the brush to brew lather of itself. 
The beginner is apt to handle the lather brush as the 
painter does the paint brush. Care must be taken 
not to allow the lather to work into the mouth, nose 
or ears. 

After applying the lather, rub it lightly into the 
beard, and remember that whether the beard be hard 
or soft, light rubbing answers the same purpose. It 
will be your first impression, that if the beard is 
thick and heavy, it will require hard rubbing. Bear 
In mind that every man's face is tender and should 
be handled carefully. 

The beard should be rubbed from two to ten mit 
utes, according to the growth of hair, Where the 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 



3J 



beard is dirty and full of g-rit, after thoroug-hly rub- 
bing- it, the lather should be wiped off with a wet 
towel and a new coat of lather applied. This will 
only be necessary in extreme cases. 

Always see that your customer is in an easy, com- 




LATHERING. 

fortable position in the chair, and do not lower the 
head rest enoug-h to cramp the person's neck. The 
skin must be always left loose so that it c^*_ redrawn 
in any position required while under the razor. 
Do not make the mistake of stropping your razor 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 



when you have nothing- else to do, thinking- it will be 
leady for use when you have prepared the beard. A 
razor must always be stropped just before using- it. 




BACK HAND. 

The philosophy of this is, the friction in stropping- 
heats the steel and expands it, leaving a smoother 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 



33 



edge than the blade naturally has when cool. While 
the heat g-iven the razor is not the only benefit, it 
explains the theory of stropping- just before shaving. 
Always begin the shave on the right hand side, 
draw the razor with a slanting stroke, as shown in 
cut. The razor must be handled in such a manner as 
to allow it to saw across the beard instead of pulling 




FREE HAND. 

straight. This motion is what makes shaving an 
art. The stroke will be found very difficult for a be- 
ginner, but by studying this motion while practicing^ 
much time will be saved. After the side of the face 
has been shaved as far as the corner of the mouth, it 
is necessary to use what we call the back handed 



34 THE BARBERS' MANUAL,. 

StiOke jt'his is done by turning- the hand as shown 
in cut, and is considered more difficult than the free 
arm motion. In order to master this, the first exer- 
cise is to throw the elbow up nearly eyen with the 
shoulder, and turn the back of the hand directly from 
you. The mistake is usually made of crowding the 
elbow down close to the side, or allowing" the arm to 
rest on the customer's chest, thus permitting the 
razor to drag instead of being carried with a gliding 
stroke from point to heel. This stroke is used on the 
side of the chin, and with the same motion run down 
to the point of the chin, taking off the balance of the 
beard as low as the jaw bone. From this point the free 
arm motion is used ag-ain on the side of the neck as 
far down as the grain runs. Care must be taken not to 
allow the razor to g^o against the grain. In shaving- 
the lower part of the neck, it will be necessary for 
you to step around behind your chair and draw the 
skin up with the thumb and down with the fingers as 
shown in the cut, so that it will be perfectly tight 
on the part of the neck which is being shaved. You 
are apt to make a mistake by allowing- your fingers 
to become damp and slippery, and haye difficulty in 
drawing- the skin tight under your hand. Be sure 
that your fingers are always dry, and the face shaved 
clean as far as you go, not allowing bits of lather to 
remain scattered over the shaved portion of the face. 




FOLLOWING THE GRAIN DOWN. 




BACK HAND, LEFT SIDE. 




ACROSS CHIN. 




UNDER LIP. 




SECOND TIME OVER. 



THE BARBERS, MANUA~ , 35 

When the side of the face nearest you has been 
shaved, turn the head on the head rest by lifting- it 
from underneath, and not pushing- it over as though 
handling" a block of wood. In shaving- the upper part 
of the face on the opposite side, it is necessary to 
use the back handed motion and change to the free 
handed stroke in shaving the chin. When this is 
completed, turn the face straight up, shaving directly 
across the chin with the diagonal stroke, then shave 
underneath as far down as the grain of the hair runs. 
Next, turn the face toward jou and shave the oppo- 
site side of the neck down with the back handed stroke 
keeping with the g-rain. Shave the lower part of the 
neck as was done on the opposite side. This part 
of the shave is the most particular and should be 
handled with the most care. 

After shaving one side of the face, the razor should 
be restropped, or even oftener if it is not giving sat- 
isfaction. It is well to ask your customer if the 
razor hurts the face, as a barber is never sure just 
what satisfaction his work is givi^ig. A razor might 
be cutting the beard nicely, but still rough enough 
tc irritate the face, and this might not be detected 
by the workman . 

Aftercompleting the shave the first time over, strop 
again. In shaving- the second time over, with a ten 
der face, it is best to take the towel and wash the 



36 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 



face, g-etting" all the soap oif the skin in order to pre- 
vent irritation. This will be necessary only with ten- 
der faces. Wet the hand by using- water bottle as 




HOI^DING THE RAZOR AND WATER BOTTI^E. 

shown in cut. Wet one side of the face at a time with 
your hand and shave the second time oyer side ways 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 37 

to the grain, and not directly ag^ainst it as many bar- 
bers have been taught to do. Never, under any circum- 
stances, shave up under the jaw bone against the 
g-rain as few faces can stand this torture when they 
indulge in a shave of tener than once or twice a week. 
This work can be done without any extreme pain on 
ordinary faces, but it soon leads to irritation, in- 
grown hairs and eruptions of the skin. 

It is the custom of most men who shave eyery day 
or every other day to shave but once over. Few men 
want a close shave, but every man wants it smooth 
and even. Do not leave rough patches, and do as 
little work as possible the second time over. Many 
ways are in vogue for washing- and drying the face 
after the shave. The best care that can be taken 
of the tender face is to apply two or three hot towels. 
Fold the towels in such a way that they can be 
drawn over the face and allowed to remain and steam 
to soak the face. This removes all inflammation and 
unpleasant feeling. After washing the face includ- 
ing- the forehead and eyes, in this manner, apply 
either bay rum or witch hazel, never both Bay rum 
will smart while witch hazel is cooling and soothing. 
The customer should always have his choice of cos- 
metics. Dry the face by first placing- towel oyer the 
face and rubbing the hands over the towel, then take 
up the towel and dry the face as you would in wip- 



38 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 

ing^ your own face, using- care that the towel is never 
wiped over the face against the grain. Be cautious 
in drying- around the ears and corners of the mouth 
and be sure to dry the entire face thoroughly before 
fanning it to prevent chapping. Apply magnesia or 
powder either by rubbing the towel over the lump of 
magnesia and applying- to the face or by using the 
powder can. Sifter top can is usually preferable, 
then wipe the powder all off from the face as it is 
only applied to give it a smooth feeling- and to pre- 
vent a glossy appearance of the skin. 

This concludes the shave proper, but after setting- 
Ihe custcner up in the chair complete your work by 
combing the hair, curling the mustache, if required, 
and such details as the customer may request. 

Many old barbers make the mistake of not using 
g-ood judgment in combing. Observe the style your 
customer has been combed before, and try and comb 
the hair as nearly like it as possible. By studying 
these rules carefully much time can be saved in a 
term of schooling, but some study will be necessary 
to get the full benefit of them. 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL,. 39 



PART V. 
HAIR-CUTTING. 

Skill in hair-cuttingf is attained by a study of 
styles and by an opportunity for constant practice. 
No one can become a skillful hair-cutter without con- 
stant attention to the work and there must be an 
opportunity for constant practice. Here is where the 
greatest disadvantage is found in theold style barber 
shop apprenticeship. Men who pay for a good hair- 
cut or a shave, naturally object to being made sub- 
jects tor a novice to practice upon, consequently the 
student who has no one to practice upon has no 
chance for advancement. 

It usually requires from two to three years to be- 
come proficient in this work. However, the same 
thing can be learned in two or three months with the 
proper opportunities before you. No one can learn 
this work or any part of it by seeing it done. \t is 
necessary to apply yourself to this work constantly 
until you have thoroughly mastered the different 
styles, and the art of handling the shears and comb 
have become a second nature to you. There can be 



40 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 

as much genius displayed in the work as in the work 
of the sculptor or the painter. Expression can be 
displayed on the back of the head as well as in the 
face. As the sculptor moulds here and there for 
expression and character, so a slig^ht touch with the 
shears and comb in the proper place, will display 
graceful or awkward outlines. It is the barber, but 
not the clothes that make the man. No amount of 
reading- or study will reveal this art, althoug-h you 
will be helped by suggestions and examples per- 
formed before you. Observe closely the fashion 
plates and directions that follow. 

Probably the mos* simple of all hair-cuts is the 
"full crown." This style is ordinarily intended lor 
boys from ten to fifteen years old, but should be 
given whenever r^^^nested. 

It is made by using the clippers up to the crown of 
the head, thus leaving only the top of the head un- 
dipped. Some experience is necessary in order to 
handle clippers properly. The greatest difficulty will 
be in allowing the handles the full stroke, for the ap- 
prentice, in nearly every instance, cramps his hand 
and thereby allows the machine only about half of 
its action. Be sure that it is given the full stroke to 
prevent clogging of the hair. 

After the clipper work is completed, then trim the 
edge which remains, after the use of the machine, so 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 41 

that it is impossible to see how high the clippers were 
used. After the edges have been evenly trimmed, 
cut the top of the hair between the fingers as shown 
in diagram. With this style, hair must be left long- 
est in front, and should gradually taper down to the 
short hair at the crown and on the sides of the head. 

In making the outlines of the haircut, which is the 
last and most noticeable part of your work, care 
must be taken to make the lines graceful. You 
should begin at the sifle of the head and in front of 
the ear and cut either straight down the back of 
the neck, on each side, or cut around as the customer 
desires. Always ask your customer which style he 
prefers. The outline made by the points of the shears 
signifies the line to which you should shave, and this 
outline should be made true and even. 
HALF CROWN. 

For the style known as the half crown cut, clippers 
should be used only half way to the crown of the 
head or a little above the ears. The line left by the 
clippers should be straight around and not be allowed 
to run down at the back of the head, as many barbers 
do with this style of cut. After completing the clip- 
per work, trim the remaining edges in the same 
manner as in the full crown cut, giving a gradual 
tapei to the hair, and so cutting out the clipper mark 
that it cannot be noticed how high the clippers were 



42 



THE BARBERS' MANUAI,. 



used. The top of the hair should be cut in the same 
manner as in the crown cut, but the proper propor- 
tion must be maintained. It will be necessary to 




TRIMMING FULL CROWN. 

leaye tne hair a little longer than in the full crown 
cut. The usual mistake in this style is in leaving 
the hair too bunchy at the crown making it appear 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 



43 




i>trLI. CROWN COMPLETED. 



44 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 




HALF CKOWN CUT. 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 4r^ 

as thoug-h a wig had been placed on too of the head. 
Study the fashion plate for this style. 

HAIR TRIM. 

The style that is known as the trim may be di- 
vided into three lengths, the short, the medium and 
the long- trim. All are cut the same, but the length 
of the hair should be gauged according to the custom- 
er's taste. For this style, clippers are not used at all. 

It is best to begin on the side of the head and not 
at the back as many barbers do. The advantag^e of 
beginning- on a side and working around is, that it 
saves time and extra work. Hair should always be 
shortest at the lower edge and gradually taper to the 
longer hair at the crown of the head. 

The ordidary or medium length is the style worn 
by most men nowadays, and in this cut it is necessary 
to become the most proficient. Cut with the shears 
and comb about two-thirds of the way to the crown. 
After you have grone clear around the head, begin 
where you left off with the shears and comb, and cut 
through the fingers from the front toward the back. 
Care should be taken not to g-et the hair too short 
at the crown. This is apt to happen unless you take 
particular pains to avoid it. After haying gon^ over 
the top of the head do not make the mistake of cut- 
ting around the forehead the same as with ^ woman's 



46 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 

bangs- The ends of the hair at the forehead should 
ouiy ce trimmed slightly, comb all the hair to one 
side. This will allow the ends of the hair to remain 
in the position the hair will be when parted. Trim 
both ^ides alike so that the hair can be parted any- 
where without leaving ragged edges on either side. 
It is often the case that barbers part the hair before 
trimming the ends. Avoid making this ^nistake, for 
if both sides are not trimmed exactly alike, the next 
time the hair is parted, if it is not parted in exactly 
the same place, ragged ends will appear on one side 
or the other. In making the outline, you will find 
the work for this style of hair-cut more difficult than 
with the crown or half crown cut. 

COLLEGE CUT. 

Comb the hair from the crown evenly in all direc- 
tions, making a false crown at the center of the head. 
Trim the lower part of the hair the same as outlin- 
ing for the ordinary or medium trim. Keep combing 
and trimming the edge until it is perfectly even, and 
shows no ragged edge. This will allow the hair, as it 
continues to grow, to have a massive or bulky ap- 
pearance, and will leave it round and smooth, with 
no marks of the shears to show. By trimming the 
lower edges you shorten the hair underneath, giving 



THK BAKBKRS' MANUAI,. 



47 




COI,I,«GE CUT— SIDE VIEW. 



48 THE BARBERS' MANUAIy. 




COLIvEGE CUT— BACK VIEW. 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 49 

the effects as shown in the cuts on pages 47 and 48. 

It may be trimmed with the Eng-lish bang- as shown 
in the side view or as the ordinary trim. The hair, 
when combed straight down from the forehead, must 
be trimmed even with the lower edge. 

POMPADOUR HAIR-CUT. 

This style is little worn now, but no barber can call 
himself proficient without having mastered this par- 
ticular style. There was a time when it was consid- 
ered the most difficult of all cuts, but it is now con- 
sidered as easy as any. The hair should be clipped 
the same as in the crown cut, then wet the brush and 
comb the hair straight up, using the comb just ahead 
of the brush. This will prevent the hair from ly- 
ing down flat and will put it in a proper position to 
be trimmed. Trim the edges left by the clippers, but 
avoid getting deep into the hair. 

After the edges are trimmed on both sides, start 
directly in the middle in front, and work back. In 
this way you have a better line to be guided by for 
the balance of the trim. Your mistakes will be in 
trimming off too much of the sides, thereby making 
it round. See that the hair has a gradual slope from 
the front back to the crown; Use the same care i< 
outlining a* with the other style. 




POMPADOUR. 




child's trim with bangs. 




CHILD S DUTCH CUT. 



50 THE BARBERS' MANUAI,. 



PART VI. 

BEARD TRIMMING. 
VAN DYKE BEARD. 

In most cases, the beard is trimmed short, using the 
clippers to the corners of the mouth, leaving only the 
chin undipped. Next trim with the shears, then 
comb the edge of the beard which remains after the 
use of the clipper and gradually work to a point, 
funnel shaped at the point of the chin. Great care 
must be taken to have the work smooth underneath, 
the chin, so that the beard, when the head is in an up- 
right position, will show no ragged edges at the 
bottom. You should always be cautious about trim- 
ming near the edge of the upper lip, as the hair usual- 
ly grows thin on that part of the face, and a verj' 
little trimming will show the bare spots. 

In order to have the points exactly in the center it ic 
necessary to trim on both sides, first on the one and 
then on the other, and you must not finish one side 
before beginning on the other. In case the customer 
does ./ot want the side of the face and neck clipped, 
trim closely with the shears, leaving the same length 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 



51 




THK VAN DYKE BEARD. 



52 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 

of beard andg-iviugf no proportion until you reach the 
corner of the mouth, then trim it to a point the same 
as when clippers are used. This is a business or pro- 
fessional man's beard trim, often called the "Napo- 
leon," and you should be cautious in adapting- it for 
the minister or for elderly gentlemen. 

THE PARTED BEARD. 

This style of beards is little worn nowadays, but 
those who possess a parted beard like those who wear 
the pompadour hair-cut, are particular about its ap- 
pearance. It is one of the most difficult trims in the 
barber business. 

The beard should first be parted in the center and 
combed out toward each side. The hair should then 
be trimmed closely on the neck either with the shears 
or with the clippers, and gradually taper to the longer 
hair on the sides of the face. This beard is directly 
opposite to the Van Dyke and is meant to broaden 
the expression of the face and not to lengthen it. 

The beard on the side of the face should usually 
be trimmed down until it is about half an inch long 
until near the chin, where it should grow longer as in 
the cut In any style of beard trim, care must be 
taken to have the hair trimmed closely on the neck. 
More work is necessary on this style of trim than 
the ordinary hair-cut, and this is a part of the work 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. S3 




THE PARTED BEARD. 



54 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 

that you receive the least practice on. Few barbers 
are expert beard trimmers. The CoUeg^e offers a 
splendid opportunity for practice in this work as well 
as all others. 

There are many other styles of wearing the beard, 
such as the "Mutton Chops,'* chin whiskers, etc. No 
skill is required in trimming- these, and the only care 
necessary must be displayed in blocking- out a new 
beard, getting both sides even and always following 
the directions of your customer, as there are as 
many styles in blocking out whiskers as you hav<» 
customers to wait upon. 



THE BARBERS, MANUAL. 
PART VII. 



55 



SHAMPOO. 



There are various methods of shampooing-, al- 
though all are practically the same in the end, the 
only difference being- in the substance or material 
used in giying- the shampoo. The material most 




fayored now is shampoo jelly. It is a substance 
which foams readily, is mild, cleansing, and health- 
ful to the scalp. 
In preparing for the shampoo, place a towel above 



% THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 

the hair cloth, both in front and back; to prever' 
wetting- the customers collar and clothes. About . 
thimbleful of the shampoo jellj' is sufficient for an or- 
dinary shampoo. Take the shampoo jelly in the left 
hand and the water bottle in the right hand, apply 
water and rub the shampoo into the hair. This pro- 
duces a liffht lather, and when sufficient water has 
been used to chang-e the jelly to a lather, set the bottle 
down and rub with both hands as in cut. Avoid rub- 
bing- with both hands in the same direction at the 
same time as this would be uncomfortable for the cus- 
tomer. Let each hand operate opposite to the other 
Rub with the balls of the fing-ers and do not scratch 
the scalp with the fing-er nails. Rub hard or lig-ht as 
suits the customer, usually rubbing- the scalp about 
five or ten minutes, then prepare the shampoo stand 
and bowl. 

Regulate the temperature of the water before get- 
ting- your customer over to the shampoo bowl. 
Where you have no water connections procure a suf- 
ficient amount of water at the proper temperature 
(luke warm) in some convenient dish in order to pour 
over the head. When everything- is in readiness, have 
your r-'stomer step from the chair to the shampoo 
stand, and force him to lean over far enoug-b so that 
the water will not run down his neck, while washing- 
the lather from his head. See that the soap is thor- 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 57 

DUghly rinsed from the hair and that the scalp is 
well cleansed. Avoid letting your customer raise his 
head up as soon as you have completed pouring on 
water or using the spray. Shake the water out of the 
hair as much as possible before using the towels, then 
dry the hair enough so the water will not run down 
the neck when the customer raises his head up. Be 
careful not to get lather in the customer's eyes. 

After the face has been wiped place your customer 
again in the chair and dry the hair thoroughly with 
the towel. In drying the hair do not place the towel 
over the head in such a way that the ends will fly 
around in the customer's face or eyes. Handle the 
towel so that the ends will be kept at the back of the 
head instead of in the face. Towels without fringe 
are preferable. The size of the towels should be 16x28 
inches. This is the most convenient size for shav- 
ing or shampooing. Do not try to dry the hair by 
fanning as this leaves the hair stiff and harsh. Al- 
ways rub until thoroughly dry, thereby making it 
light, loose and fluffy. 

EGG SHAMPOO. 

For an egg shampoo use a fresh egg, break the end 
sufficiently to allow the white to come out a little at 
a time and rub thoroughly through the hair. After 



oi THE BARBERS' MANUAI,. 

rubbing the head well the same as with the shanipw^ 
jelly, wash the hair out the same as in the ordinary 
shampoo, but apply a little soap or jelly when you 
are rinsing the hair. 

An egg shampoo is supposed to leaye the hair in a 
better condition than any other kind of a shampoo. 

ALCOHOL SHAMPOO. 

An alcohol shampoo is the same as an ordinary 
one with the exception of rubbing alcohol through 
the hair after drying it. 

From fifteen to twenty-five minutes is usually 
necessary for giving a good shampoo. Men pay more 
for a shampoo than for a sea foam, and it is the work 
attached to it that makes it more expensive. Too 
many barbers are accustomed to slighting this work, 
which requires as much pains as any part of the 
barber business. A man may receive a bath for the 
same price that he pays for a shampoo, and if it 
was simply for cleansing the head all customers 
would take a bath in preference to paying simply 
for having the head cleaned. 

A shampoo is not properly done unless the hair is 
well rubbed and thoroughly dried. 

DRY SHAMPOO. 

Dry shampoo can be given the same as an ordinary 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL,. W 

shampoo, using- the shampoo jelly or a shampoo bar, 
but the hair should be washed out by using wet 
towels instead of taking- the customer to the shampoo 
stand. Use a towel wet enough to wash the lather 
out of the hair, and rinse your towel three or four 
times while cleaning the scalp. Dry the hair the 
same as before. 

SEA-FOAM. 

Sea-foam answers the same purpose as a shampoo, 
but it requires less work. The material used is a 
liquid. Apply it to the hair the same as water and 
rub the head vigorously. Apply a sufficient amount 
to wet the hair thoroughly and by rubbing^ well, it 
will cause it to foam and evaporate. After a liberal 
foam has been obtained, rub with both hands as in a 
shampoo until entirely evaporated. Then take a wet 
towel and rinse out the hair the same as in the dry 
shampoo. Less time and less work is required in 
g-iving^ a sea-foam and a smaller price is charged for 
it. Sea-foam is very cleansing, but less beneficial to 
the scalp than the shampoo. It removes dandruff for 
a time, but is more apt to create a growth of dan- 
druff than to destroy it. 

SINGEING. 

Singeing is to promote the growth of the hair. By 



60 



THE BARBERS" MANUAL. 



burning- the ends after it has been cut it closes the 
pores of the hair keeping- the fluid in and preventing 
the ends from splitting. It is one of the best remedies 




SINGEING 

for falling hair and it strengthens the growth. Hair 
can be singed at any length. 

Use a singeing taper or gas light taper in the 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 61 

right hand, with the comb in the left, and for short 
hair, singe over the comb as in cut. Where the hair 
is long, singe over the fingers the same as in cutting 
long hair. This work is very simple after you have 
learned to trim, still it is a very important and a neces- 
sary qualification for the barber. The most pains 
should be taken around the crown and forehead as 
these are the parts where the hair is apt to fall out 
and needs the most strengthening. In singeing the 
back of the neck, use the comb above the blaze to pre- 
vent the fire from running up and catching the hair 
above the singer. This is the only difficult part of 
singeing. 

DYEING HAIR. 

The different formulas and preparations for dye- 
ing hair are numerous, although there is but one kind 
used to any extent by the barber. This is called Dye 
No. 1 and No. 2, called so from the fact that it is in 
two parts, or two bottles, labeled Nos. 1 and 2. This 
is the only instantaneous dye we have, and for this 
reason is the one preferred by the barber. It is sel- 
dom used in dyeing the entire hair or whiskers but is 
the universal application for the mustache. Dyeing 
the mustache is but little practiced nowadays, but it 
is very important that the barber should know how. 



62 



THE BARBEUS' MANUAL, 



for serving- customers with this part of the work leads 
to other trade. 

In dyeing, no matter what kind of dye is used, first 
thoroughly clean the hair or mustache. Sea-foam is 
the best to use for this purpose as it dries quickest. 
After the hair is thoroughly cleaned apply No. 1, 
either with the fingers or tooth brush. No. 1 simply 
prepares the hair for the dye, and does not color or 




effect the skin. After drying No. 1 by fanning: (not 
rubbing) apply No. 2 with a small brush, using it 
over the comb as shown in cut. 

Great care must be taken in dyeing the mustache 
or hair, to have a very little of the material ca the 
brush so as to prevent its running onto the skin, "^he 
most difficult part of this work is getting close to the 



THE BARBERS' MANUALr. 63 

roots of the hair without touching- the flesh. When 
the dye is once on it cannot be washed out, even 
with soap or ammonia, and it is obliged to remain 
until worn off. 

"Where other kinds of dye are used they are applied 
the same as No. 2, first by cleansing- the hair and 
applying the fluid, but these dyes do not change the 
color of the hair immediately. Twenty-four hours is 
usually required for all other dyes to do their work. 
Any number of applications can be had according- to 
the color required, each application making- the hair 
a little darker, but with Nos. 1 and 2 it is immediately- 
dyed black. No other color can be obtained. 

BIvEACHING HAIR. 

Hair may be bleached from dark to light by using 
a solution of Hydrogen of Peroxide. 

For bleaching-, first clean the hair the same as for 
dyeing-, and apply the bleach in the same way as you 
apply the dye, being careful to keep it off from the 
flesh. As many applications can be applied as re- 
quired, each application changing- the color of the 
hair a few shades lighter. Twenty-four hours' time 
is required after the application to change the color 
of the hair 



64 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 

PRICES. 

Too often the mistake is made by beginners in this 
work, who think they will obtain more practice and 
as gfood profits, by cutting- prices. No g-reater error 
could be made and the writer would advise any man 
contemplating this profession as a life work to aban- 
don the work entirely if the regulation prices cannot 
be had. Nearly any line of day labor will be found as 
lucrative as cheap barber work, if not quite as easy. 
Your time and money spent in mastering- this pro- 
fession is putting you in possession of a serviceable 
trade and your place cannot be filled by the ordinary 
laborer. It is one that commands and receives good 
prices for good services, and no one will be benefitted 
by inferior work at cut rates. 

The average prices for barbering- are as follows: 

Hair-cutting 2Sc 

Honing Razors 2Sc 

Singe 25c 

Beard Trimming 25c 

Shampoo 25c 

Mustache Dye 25c 

Sea-foam 10c 

Shaye . . 10c. 

Dyeing the entire head of hair should be 
charg-ed for according to the length of the hair and 



THE BARBERS, MANUAL. 65 

material required for doing^ it, usually frota $1.00 to 
$2 00 is the regulation price for hair or whiskers. 

In giving- a shave where it is requested that the back 
of the neck be shaved it is usually customary to 
charge fiye cents extra. For these prices the best 
brands of cosmetics should be used. 



MISCELIvANEOUS BRIEJES. 

Do not go out looking for employment at this work 
without a clean shaye, clean linen and a shine. Your 
personal appearance has as much to do with holding 
positions as your work itself. 

Neatness. Careful work. Politeness to customers. 
Speed comes by practice. Never hurry unless re- 
quested to. Do not seek to increase trade by cutting 
prices. I^ady hairdressing- is an accomplishment no 
barber can afford to be without. A well regulated 
barber shop should have the air of a parlor and its 
workmen the courtesy of a reception committee. 

A very essential thing of the barber profession is 
Dermatology, a science which deals with the treat- 
ment of hair, scalp and skin diseases. A full course 
of lectures delivered to the students of our Barber 
College by Dr. B. Franklin Tolson, L,. L,. B., M. D., is 
given in our Ready Reference Guide, which also con- 



G6 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 

tains eig-hty select formulas for all cosmetics used in 
the barber shop. Price 25 cents. 

It is customary to leave a razor or some security 
for your position if you are not irn mediately ready to 
g^o to work. After securing- the position it will always 
be expected of you to keep work-stand, chair and 
glass neatly arranged and clean. A barber is not 
usually expected to take care of the shop further 
than this, althoug-h in small places, where there are 
no porters, it is customary for the barber to help care 
for the shop. 

FORMULAS. 

HAIR TONIC (BALDNESS.) 

Tinct. capsicum 2 drs. 

Water ammonia ( 10 per cent) 1 oz. 

Pilocarpine hydrochlorate 5 grs. 

Colog-ne 3 ozs. 

Use on scalp twice a day. 

HAIR TONIC. 

Tr. Cantharides 4 drs. 

lyiq. Ammonia 4 drs. 

Rose Water 2 ozs. 

Glycerine 4 ozs. 

Bay Rum 10 ozs. 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 57 

REMEDY FOR DANDRUFF. 

Resorcin 5 to 10 parts. 

Castor Oil 45 parts. 

Alcohol 150 parts. 

Balsam of Peru 5 part. 

Rub in daily with a piece of flannel. 

HAIR DYE. 

No. 1. 

Gallic acid 20 ffrs- 

Alcohol 5 dr>.. 

Water 2 drs. 

No. 2. 

Silver nitrate 1 dr. 

Ammonia 3 drs. 

Gum arabic . . 30 grs. 

Water 6 drs . 

Dissolve the silver nitrate in the ammonia and 
the g"um arabic in the water. Then mix. 

SHAMPOO PASTE. 

White soft soap 4 ozs. 

Honey soap, in shavings 2 ozs. 

Oliye oil 1 fl. oz. 

Water 1 fl. oz. 

Potassium carbonate 1 dr. 

Melt all together and beat into paste. May be per- 
fumed if desired. 



68 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 

IMPROVED SEA-FOAM. 

Alcohol 16 ozs 

Water 16 ozs. 

Aqua ammonia ... 1 dr, 

Cologne water 1 dr. 

HAIR BLEACH. 
The best preparation for this purpose is Peroxide of 
Hydrogen. 

BAY RUM. 

Jamaica rum 16 ozs. 

Rect. spts 64 ozs. 

Water 48 ozs. 

Mix and add: 

Oil of bay 1 oz. 

BARBER COLLEGE BRILLIANTINE. 

Castor oil 1 oz. 

Alcohol absolute 2 oz. 

Oil of rose Q . S. 

Oil of neroli Q. S 

This makes a gooJ preparation and is practically 
inseparable. 

BARBERS' POWDER. 

Salol 1 dr. 

Starch , 2 oz 

Mix and make a powder. 



THE BARBERS' MANUAI^ 69 

HAIR POMADE. 

Lard 4 lbs. 

Yellow wax 3 oz. 

Palm oil 1 oz. 

Melt, strain, and add while stirring-: 

Rose water 4 ozs. 

Oil berg-amot 1 oz. 

OINTME^NT FOR BARBER'S ITCH. 

Tannic acid , 15 gr. 

Sulphur, precipitated Yz dr. 

Petrolatum 5 drs. 

GLYCERINE FACE LOTION. 

Mucilage of Flaxseed 8 fl oz 

Glycerine 8 

Alcohol 2 

Essence of rose Yz 

Borax 2 

Rose water, sufficient to make 32 

VIOLET WATER. 

Essence Violet, French's 8 oz 

Deodorized Alcohol 7 pints 

Rose water 1 pint 

Mix and filter. 



70 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 

MEN'S FACIAL AND SCALP MASSAGE. , 

Recently Men's Facial Massage has become as popu- 
lar in the barber shops as any work that he is called 
upon to do and one that affords a splendid revenue, 
if the skill and equipment for this department is as 
carefully looked after as the other branches. This is 
a profession that is more a matter of study and demon- 
stration than of practice. It differs from the other 
branches of the business inasmuch as the high efficiency 
in mechanical skill is not required, but a knowledge of 
the muscles of the face, their development and manipu- 
lations require a careful understandmg. 

Man}^ methods of doing this work are employed, 
usually varying according to the facilities obtainable. 
We have divided the work into three divisions, i. e., 
Vibratory, Electric and Finger manipulations, so that 
one or the other can be used in any locality or under 
any circumstances that may exist. The training of 
our System of Colleges includes all three of these 
methods so that one is qualified to take up the work 
in any establishment, or satisfy any employer, no mat- 
ter what method he may adopt. 

Massaging is done for the purpose of eradicating 
wrinkles, black heads, pimples and other facial blem- 
ishes, as well as to clear the complexion, develop 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 71 

shrunken muscles, fill out hollow cheeks and harden 
flabby skin. It is a treatment recommended by physi- 
cians and if followed out according to the instructions 
laid down here, will produce surprising results. While 
every face will require the same general principle, they 
must be varied to suit each particular subject. On 
account of the beardy surface, men's facial massage is 
taken up by entirely a different set of manipulations 
than is used for ladies' work, so that one cannot follow- 
out the same system for both sex. 

APPARATUS REQUIRED FOR VIBRATORY 
AND ELECTRIC MASSAGE.. 

Probably the most popular instrument now in use in 
connection with the facial massage is the Vibrator, of 
which there are a great many patterns and different 
manufactures, all working on the one general principle 
of rapid vibrations to stimulate the circulations and 
exercise the muscles by kneading and manipulating. 
Among the higher priced machines, are those that are 
constructed to operate a number of different styles of 
movements thus savmg time that would be required by 
the hand process. 

The machines are operated by electricity, water power 
and in some instances by storage battery. Should you 



12 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 




CABINET BASE MASSAGER. 




RUBBER CUP MASSAGER, STORAGE BATTERIES, 




RUBBER CUP MASSAGER, CITY CURRENT. 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 



75 




NATURAL HAND MASSAGER. 



be located in a city where electricity or city water 
power cannot be had and wish to use the vibratory, the 



76 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 

storage battery of course would be the only power that 
would be obtainable. With this instrument no elec- 
tricity is applied to the subject, as is quite frequently 
believed and it has nothing to do with the benefits of 
this method of massaging, by which the length of time 
required for the operation is shortened. 

Among the different grades of instruments, are those 
that stand on the roller cabinet, so that they may be 
placed convenient to the different chairs of the shop 
without difficulty, some are built to hang from a spring 
in an iron stand, while others stand on a wooden 
cabinet. 

There are others more simply constructed which in 
themselves are a small motor attached to either the 
city wire or storage battery and operate a small ham- 
mer-like rubber cup, from within the instrument held 
in the hand. 

Only one style of manufacture offers the machine 
that gives the natural hand massage. 

This is recommended very highly by numerous physi- 
cians on account of the benefits that can be derived 
from the hand in place of the mechanical rubber cup. 
This instrument has an arm running from the motor 
to the hand, giving it the rapid movement and allowing 
some skill to be displayed in manipulation of the differ- 
ent movements. 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 



77 



ELECTRIC MASSAGE. 

The electric apparatus that operates entirely on an- 
other principle supplies electricity direct to the patient, 
by means of the roller, sponge disc or through the 
operator and gives what is known as the Electric Mas- 
sage. The Faradic current is the only one suitable for 
this style of massage and it is essential that a battery 
of light voltage is used to avoid a severe shock at any 
time. Among the many manufactured is one that in- 
cludes the dry cells with conducting cords, sponge disc, 



N24.4 

,''ARAb/G BATTERY 



M;^ 




ELECTRIC BATTERIES AND ACCESSORIES. 



78 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 

rollers, brushes and other small accessories. It is the 
only one intended exclusively for the barber and mas- 
suer's use. 

Quite frequently results can be obtained by the elec- 
tric massage than cannot be reached by other means 
and it is well to have this battery as part of your equip- 
ments whether employed as a journeyman or conduct- 
ing your own business. It is portable and can be 
operated without danger of injurious effects. By many, 
electricity is considered one of the best means of 
destroying germs and contagious diseases. 

For finger manipulation alone, without the use of 
mechanical devices, it is only necessary to be provided 
with hot water, towels and creams for that purpose. 
Many prefer this method of massaging, although it 
usually requires a little longer time to give it. The 
nature of the creams and skin foods used for this proc- 
ess is entirely different from that used with mechanical 
devices, although each are for the purpose of cleansing 
the skin and building up the tissue and is an important 
factor in this work. A number of these devices are 
suitable for the use of massaging the scalp as well as 
the face. They should be kept well oiled, handled care- 
fully and cups sterilized in a lo per cent solution of 
carbolic acid after each treatment. 

One specialist has the following to say about Vibra- 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. . 79 

tory Massage : The general public is now so thoroughly 
conversant with the great benefits of manual massage 
or system of manipulation and kneading for relief of 
all ailments, that we will not devote any space to this 
subject, but mechanical massage which is fast taking 
the place of hand manipulation is not so well known. 
Whenever a treatment is give'n, however, there is such 
an invigorating and agreeable effect produced, that 
your patron not only discards the old methods, but 
becomes a more frequent user of the new. Never in 
the history of any treatment has there been anything 
that has sprung into popularity in so short a time as 
Vibratory Message, more commonly known as Mechan- 
ical Massage. 

No barber shop, no masseur's or Dermatologist's par- 
lor or treating room is complete without an outfit. 

FACIAL MASSAGE. 

Poor circulation of the blood is the direct cause of 
many affections of the skin and scalp as well as dis- 
orders of the body. When the minute blood vessels 
and pores of the face fail to perform their respective 
duties and impurities are not properly eliminated, black 
heads, pimples, wrinkles, etc., appear. 

A treatment gives activity to the blood vessels which 



80 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 

carry off the impurities and with the movement of the 
massager the pores are opened and thoroughly cleansed, 
leaving the skin soft and smooth. 

These treatments are becoming so popular that not 
only the men, but many ladies are taking them. As 
any hygienist will appreciate, that this form of treat- 
ment will do more in securing a beautiful complexion 
and a lasting one, than all the cosmetics and alleged 
beautifiers in the world. 

SCALP TREATMENT. 

There is no way possible of treating the scalp as can 
be done by massage. As in the case of the face, it 
produces a good circulation of the blood which gives 
new life and strength to the hair and is a cure for all 
scalp diseases. 

This treatment is extremely refreshing and is felt for 
hours afterwards. It is a popular treatment for the 
quick cure of headache, neuralgia, muscular twitching, 
insomnia, etc. 

In giving a facial or head treatment, always finish at 
the lower part of the neck, which draws the blood from 
the brain, relieving congestion where it exists, and this 
will give the best possible result. 

BASED UPON NATURAL LAWS. 

Hygeia-Vibration is no longer considered a fad, but 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 81 

a natural and scientific treatment, which has come to 
stay. It is fast superseding the drugging and other 
harmful methods. 

Aside from the benefits already referred to in the 
treatment of face and scalp, the combined vibrating and 
kneading movements of a massager produce wonderful 
results as an exerciser of the muscles and is a power- 
ful influence upon the circulation and nerve fluids in 
all ailments and weaknesses. It produces a decided 
"warming" effect. Specialists, in conducting experi- 
ments in vibratory treatment, have noticed the marked 
increase in temperature of the part subjected to the 
massage, the amount increased depending upon the 
length of time the application is made and the degree 
below normal temperature at the start. The treatment, 
in fact, helps not only in local conditions, but fills the 
patient from head to foot with new vigor and vitality, 
building up the health generally a? nothing else can. 
MUSCLES OF THE FACE. 

In order that you will better understand the scien- 
tific manipulations of the muscles as well as the outer 
conditions of the skin, we present here the illustrations 
defining each and every muscle, and in the following 
pages describe how they are to be manipulated to bring 
about the best results. For this illustration and descrip- 
tion we are indebted to Dr. J. E. MacGregor. 




DIAGRAM OF MUSCI. 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 83 

Frontal Bone. 

Parietal. 

Occiptal. 

Squamous portion of Temporal. 

Pronto-parietal (Coronal) and Occipito-pareital 

(Lamboid) sutures. 
Malar. 

External Auditory Meatus. 
Orbicularis Palpebrarum Muscle. 
Zygomatici Major and Minor. 
Masseter Muscle. 
Orbicularis Oris. 
Levator-Menti. 
Sterno-mastoid. 
Levator Auguli Scapulae. 
Omo-Hyoid-anterior part. 
Internal Jugular vein. 
Facial Vein. 
Temporal Vein. 
Common Cortoid Artery. 
Facial Artery. 
Superficial Cervical nerves. 
Facial Nerve. 
Supra-maxillary division. 
Trachea. 
Occipito Frontalis. 



84 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 



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THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 85 

FINGER MANIPULATION. 

In order to give a satisfactory massage, it is first 
necessary that your customer has a smooth shave to 
manipulate successfully. If you have just given the 
shave, keep your customer in the same position for 
the massage and continue with it before drying the 
face. With an ordinary shave, one or two hot towels 
is sufficient, but to prepare for the massage use three 
or four. If your customer comes to you with a smooth 
shave, place him in the chair, cover him with a hair 
cloth, arrange the breast towel the same as for giving 
a shave and have the customer prepared for the hot 
towel process. It is essential that you use clean water. 
If you are so arranged that you draw the hot water 
from a tank supplied by the building in which you may 
be located, it is presumed that the water is clean as 
it is usually boiled before reaching the faucet. If you 
have an apparatus such as is used in numerous shops, 
that is in itself an instantaneous heater where the 
water is drawn from the city pipes this will be suit- 
able, but if you have a small tank to be filled with well 
water or from city pipes, you must be particularly 
cautious that the tank or receptable holding the water 
is kept free from all impurities. 

It is very essential that the towels used are as hot 



86 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 



as can . be handled in order to bring about the best 
results. If your washstand is some distance away from 
your chair, it is advisable to keep your towels folded 
in such a manner that it will be easily unwrapped when 
close to the face in order to let the steam of the towel 
strike the face before applying the hot towel. 




APPLYING HOT TOWEL. 

We are now ready to place the towel on the face, 
holding it at either end with the two hands in such 
a manner that it will be drawn perfectly tight. Let 
the center of the towel strike the chin and bring it up 
over all parts of the face to be massaged, covering 
the eyes and forehead, leaving only the end of the nose 
uncovered. A small Turkish towel is most suitable for 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 87 

this use. Bringing one end of the towel np over the 
other at the forehead and allow it to remain on the 
face while saturating another towel. The second towel 
may be laid on top of this one in the same manner or 
after the first towel has rested on. the face a half a 
minute. It may be taken off and replaced with the 
second towel. It may be well that you use a third 
towel well down on the neck, being careful that you 
do not get the collar or shirt band wet. Repeat this 
as often as it seems necessary to thoroughly steam and 
redden the face, thus bringing blood to the surface and 
assists the manipulation. 

You now have the face ready for the rolling cream, 
so called on account of the manner in which it rolls 
off from the face during the manipulation. Without 
drying on face, take a small portion of the cream in 
the palm of the left hand and with the ends of the 
fingers of the right hand, put a small amount on the 
face at a time, distributing it as evenly as possible 
without delaying the work or wasting more time than 
is necessary. Time must be saved in this process in 
order to start the manipulation before the face has 
time to thoroughly dry. Have the cream evenly dis- 
tributed over all parts that are to be massaged, giving 
it a thin layer, similar to a coat of paint. Frequently 
the cream becomes dry and does not separate readily; 



88 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 

in this event, it can be softened or thinned with a small 
amount of witch hazel. After yon have your cream 
spread, rub the two hands together with a small amount 
of cream in order to thoroughly saturate the insides 
of the hands. Begin the manipulation as shown in 
figure. 




ROTARY CHEEK MOVEMENT. 



Take your position back of the customer in such a 
manner that you have free action of both arms. Place 
the hands on the cheeks and rub in a rotary movement, 
beginning at the jaw bone and work up over the 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 

cheeks toward the eyes and ears. Some practice will 
be required to learn to manipulate with both hands 
alike, using only the balls of the fingers and give what 
IS known as the rotary movement. Repeat the manipu- 
lation from five to ten times, varying it in such a way 
that you will cover all parts of the side of the face to 
the temple. 

It will require some experience to know just how 
many movements to make in order to get all over the 
face before it starts to dry. On a fleshy person whose 
face is naturally warm, the cream drys much faster than 
on a thin bloodless face. Going to the second move- 
ment, place the ends of the fingers together under the 




STRAIGHT NASAL MOVEMENT. 



90 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 



chin and with the two thumbs on each side of the nose 
as shown in illustration. 

Manipulate with the thumbs in a straight up and 
down movement on both sides of the nose, working 
down to the part of the cheek that has been manipu- 
lated in the first movement. Repeat this manipulation 
about the same number of times as the former. It is 
necessary to place the fingers under the chin in order 
to steady the hand while giving the thumbs the move- 
ment. Continue down the face to the upper lip with 
each thumb and continue down over the chin, still 
keeping the end of the fingers in the same position 
completing, this movement. 




ROTARY FRONTALIS. 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 



91 



Now place the ends of the fingers on the cheeks and 
manipulate with the thumbs over the forehead in a 
rotary movement as described in Rotary Frontalis. 
This is to develop the Occipito Frontalis muscle to 
eradicate the lines that form at the forehead. 

Now we are ready for the kneading and rolling proc- 
ess. Take your position at the side of the chair, 
(starting on the right side) by picking up a roll of the 




KNEADING AND ROLLING. 



skin at the lower part of the ear and kneading and 
rolling in the direction as shown in illustration, 
varying the direction until you have covered the right 



92 



THE BARBERS" MANUAL. 



side of the face, working from the ear toward tlie chin, 
along the jaw bone, as well as toward the nose and up 
toward the eyes. This is to strengthen the two mus- 
cles No. 9 Zygomatic! Major and Minor and No. lO 
The Masseter as shown in the diagram. 

If the massage is given for the purpose of reducing 
the flesh, it should be more vigorous as this will cause 
the muscles to develop, taking the place of areolar 
tissue, (fat) which is decreased, thus hardening the 
flabby loose skin. At about this point in the operation 




STRAIGHT FRONTALIS. 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL, 93 

the cream should begin to come off the skin in rolls. 
Care should be taken that it is not allowed to work 
underneath the collar. Continue to manipulate by 
kneading on both sides as long as the cream rolls and 
continue over the nose and forehead and between the 
eyes. By stretching the skin, between the thumb and 
fingers of the left hand, rub up and down over the 
Occipito Frontalis with the second finger of the right 
hand as described in illustration, Straight Frontal. 

Now stretch the skin tight between the eyebrows 
with finger and thumb of the left hand and rub lightly 
with the second finger of the right hand across the 
lines that form at this point. Care must be taken not 
to massage too heavy to over-develop these muscles, 
thus giving the face a stern appearance'. Now place 
the thumb and finger of the left hand under the eye 
at the bridge of the nose and at the outer corner^ 
stretching the skin lightly underneath the eye. The 
massage is giy,ep with the second finger of the right 
hand. Rub from the inner corner out in a half circular 
movement a? shovyn in figure, Circular Movement. 

Great care i?3ust be exercised in not massaging too 
heavy at this ^oint as it is easy to discolor the eye, 
giving it the ap|^earane,e of a bruise. This should ben,e- 
.fit the dsifk circles a;t^d ;Cares\vOrn appearance, but ^ust 



94 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 

not be overdone. This operates on the Orbicularis 
Palpebrarum. Now place the finger of the left hand 
above and below the outer corner of the eye and mas- 
sage lightly across the lines commonly known as crow's 
feet that form at this point. Now take your position 




CIRCULAR ORBICULAR MOVEMENT. 



behind the customer and rub over the entire face lightly 
to remove all particles of cream that may have been 
left on the face in rolls. 

In case your subject is troubled with black heads, 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 95 

the cream while being rolled from the face will re- 
move some of the small ones, but in the event of larger 
ones appearing, it will be necessary to use the Comedo 
Extractor. 

Now apply another hot towel as formerly described, 
repeating three or four times, allowing the fade to 
steam from two to three minutes. Now is the time 
to use the Comedo Extractor, but it must be remem- 
bered that only a few must be removed in immediate 
proximity to each other. You may take a small por- 
tion of one side of the face and then a small portion 




COMEDO EXTRACTOR. 



of the other side, but in severe cases it may require 
several treatments to remove them all. Draw the skin 
.tight with the thumb and finger of the left hand over 
the black heads to be removed and place the hole of 
the Comedo Extractor over the black heads. If they 
are too obstinate, it is not policy to irritate the face 



96 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 

by too severe pressure, but wait for two or three treat- 
ments, which will eventually remove them. 

In case your subject is troubled with pimples, you 
should be careful to ascertain what is their cause. In 
case of systemic diseases, syphlitic diseases and gastro 
intestinal, it is not policy to try to treat by this process, 
although they may be benefitted by it. The pimples 
that can be treated most successfully is one that will 
be found with a small black head in the center and 
contains pus, which is caused by the decomposition of 
the black heads. If the contents can be removecf 
easily, do so by pinching it lightly between the two 
thumbs, being careful not to allow the nails to come 
in contact with the open pimple. If it is not easily 
removed, let it have another treatment. If removed, 
apply Peroxide of Hydrogen with a small piece of 
cotton, but do not allow the cotton to remain on any 
length of time. If left too long, peroxide will destroy 
the tissue and leave a small scar. This is used as an 
antiseptic. 

In all methods of massaging, whether or not pimples 
or black heads appear, finish by anointing the face with 
cold cream or skin food. After thoroughly rubbing it 
into the skin, remove all that is possible to wipe ofif 
with a clean, soft towel. In most instances it wili 
be desired by your patient that you apply another hot 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 97 

towel and immediately after a cold one to close the 
pores and harden the flesh. In first-class establish- 
ments, a toilet water of some description is used, but 
the massage may be given without. Thoroughly wipe 
the face and apply a good wholesome powder as is 
described in shaving. 

It is advisable that a sifter top can is used in prefer- 
ance to the lump magnesia or puff as there is not the 
possibility of diseases being conveyed from one face to 
another. 

VIBRATORY. 

The Vibratory Massage may be given in addition to 
the finger manipulation or in connection with the elec- 
tric massage if desired, but ordinarily only one style 
is required at a time, although many customers vary 
the treatments, having first one and then the other. 
Where this method is desired without either of the 
others, prepare your customers by applying the hot 
towels as described in the manner of finger manipu- 
llatu-ottii and after the face is thoroughly steamed, apply 
a cream which is a sk'm food, not the rolling cream as 
described with the fofmer movements. 

This cream both cleanses and builds up tissues and 
is driven into the face by the rapid vibrating movement 



98 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 

of the instrument. After spreading the cream, apply 
one hot towel in order to soften the cream, making it 
easier to drive into the pores of the skin. As the face 
cannot be thoroughly cleaned by the use of hot towels, 
wipe the cream from the face with a clean, dry towel 
and it will be seen that much dirt will be removed 
even after the face has been well washed. 

You may now apply cream again and you have the 
customer ready for the instrument. If you are using 
the style of machine to which the hand is attached in 
place of the rubber cups, fasten the right hand on 
securely by running the entire hand through the first 
strap and the second and third finger through the 
second strap. Buckle it tightly, so there will be no 
lost motion between the hand and the instrument. 
Place the machine on the opposite side of the chair 
from which you are working, so that arm of instru- 
ment will be at right angles with the hand, as shown 
in illustration. Vibratory Hand Massage. 

Start the machine in motion and begin the massage 
on the forehead. Cross the lines, working from one 
side of the forehead to the other. Place the fingers 
on the face lightly, then pass over the same surface, 
allowing the ends of the fingers to tap the face with 
the rapid movement caused by the machine. Work 
dowai over the cheeks in a rotary movement until the 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 




VIBRATORY HAND MASSAGE. 



100 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 

entire side of the face is massaged. Work up over the 
nose and very lightly underneath the eyes, gradnall)' 
working across the chin to the other side of the face, 
and massage both sides alike. 

If you have a revolving chair so that it can be 
adjusted, it will not be necessary to stop your machine 
to operate on both sides of the face, but in case you 
have an ordinary reclining chair which does not re- 
volve, it will be necessary to massage one side, then 
place the machine on the other side of the chair and 
complete your work. 

The Vibratory Massage should not be overdone. In 
no instance should it be applied more than fifteen 
minutes and usually not more than ten. This method 
of massaging affords the customer a very pleasant 
sensation, one that is difficult to describe, but when 
once given will be much sought after. If the work 
has been properly done, the cream will have been 
absorbed by the face an-d it will be left with a healthy 
glow. Judgmepit must be dis.pl;ayed in niiassagjng the 
.different faces. If you have a skin that is very tender 
and .easily irritated, yo,u must be particularly cautious 
to make your stroke light. If you have a face that is 
thin with hollow cheeks and needs building up, work 
jn as much cream as is possible by applying if a secon<d 
0r third time and allow your sitroke to be firm, bijil 
ligM. 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 101 

Some study of the diagram will be necessary in order 
to more intelligently understand what muscles to 
develop. If lines form under the ears, you will see the 
necessity of strengthening the muscles that hold that 
part of the flesh in place and you should then work 
on the back portion of the Masseter muscle. 

If the massage is given to reduce the flesh, such as 
the double chin, the stroke should be more vigorous, 
always working from the lower part of the face up, 
in order to bring back to the natural condition the 
loose flabby skin. 

ELECTRIC. 

For this treatment, prepare your customer as before 
with the hot towels and cream, thoroughly cleansing 
the face before starting the operation. The electric 
massage may be given by use of the roller and sponge 
disc, which applies the electricity direct to the cus- 
tomer, or through the operator by attaching the wrist 
band to the massuer. If the sponge discs are preferred, 
prepare your battery by attaching the cord to the post 
marked "N" and the other end to the metal handle 
which is placed in the customer's hand. To the post 
marked "P" attach the other cord and to the other 
end of the sponge disc, which must be thoroughly wet. 
This is very essential as there would be no benefit of 
the electric massage with a dry sponge. 



102 THE BARBERS' MANUAL 

Place your battery on the work stand in such a 
manner that you will have free use of the cord to 
which the sponge disc is attached. Take your position 
at the side of the chair and proceed the same as with 
the vibratory. This method is usually given for the 
purpose of plumping the cheeks after the finger manipu- 
lation. After having worked with .the disc in the 
rotary movement on the cheeks, detach it and put in 
its place the roller. Roll it lightly over the forehead, 
up and down across the wrinkles and over the ex- 
pression lines that form at the corners of the eye. 
However, the most popular electric massage is given 
by attaching the wrist band with the sponge electrode, 
thoroughly wet, and fastened to the inside of the wrist 
and proceed with the work the same as described in 
the finger manipulation. This gives a soothing and 
pleasant sensation, destroys germs of disease with 
which it comes in contact and is considered by many 
the most healthful and pleasant massage given. In 
every case, where the electric massage is required, it 
is necessary that the customer holds the metal handle. 
Without this there would be no current and no benefits 
from the electricity. 

Many customers are able to stand a great deal more 
electricity than others and you can guage the amount 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 103 

to be given by adjusting the shield at the right of the 
battery made for this purpose. 

If the instrument is used that manipulates the rubber 
cup, proceed on the same Hues as laid down for the 
hand massage, allowing the instrument to tap the face 
lightly or heavier as the case may require. Experience 
and practice will do much to teach you the harm or 
benefit that results from this work. Where you find 
that certain muscles are being over-developed, giving 
the face a coarser appearance, work on lines that will 
build up f^esh instead of muscles. 

Many kinds of creams are used for this purpose, 
but the formula given on the following pages are the 
best that we have been able to ascertain and can be 
manufactured in your own shop with little difficulty, 
but in most cases they can be secured from the supply 
houses at little additional cost, saving the trouble of 
preparing them. The rolling cream as described for 
the finger manipulation is not suitable for the vibra- 
tory use and is not intended to build up tissue. It is 
a substance made from milk chemically prepared and 
one that requires a special machine to grind and whip 
it to the proper consistency. This could not be manu- 
factured successfully at home. 

SCALP MASSAGE. 

One essential requirement to a good head of hair is 



104 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 




VIBKATORY CUP MASSAGE, 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 



105 




VIBRATORY SCALP MASSAGE 



good circulation. This can be brought about by finger 
manipulation, vibratory massage or electricity^ and if 



106 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 

you educate your customers to the benefits of this work, 
you will reap a splendid revenue. 

In giving the finger manipulation as well as the other 
treatments it is best that you use a good tonic. Place 
your customer in a chair in an upright position, the 
same as for haircutting. Spread the hair cloth and 
towels in the same manner as for a shampoo, apply 
the tonic the same as wetting the hair preparatory for 
combing and start your manipulation by taking the 
position back of the customer, placing either hand at 
the sides of the head and work upward in quick, 
rotary movements, using the balls of the fingers and 
thumb in such a manner that it will loosen the scalp 
but will not pull the hair. Proceed clear around the 
head, changing- your position as it is necessary to get 
at the work. Now place the fingers on top of the head 
to steady the hands, and with the balls of the thumbs 
work the scalp in a rotary movement, going all over 
the head from -the base of the brain up. About from 
five to ten minutes should be consumed in manipu- 
lation. 

In using the Vibratory, you may apply the tonic or 
not, as your customer desires. If you are using the 
machine to which the hand is attached, start at the 
right side of the head, with the machine in motion, 
using the left hand to steady the head and work from 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 107 

the bottom of the scalp up, continuing clear around. 
Always finish the work by a light massage at the base 
of the brain to draw the blood to that part, thus avoid- 
ing headache that may follow. 

If the machine is used that operates the rubber cup, 
follow the same principles and use the same precaution 
not to overdo the work. A different attachment is 
furnished with each machine for this purpose. 

If the electric scalp massage is required, the only 
ones that can be given successfully is through the 
operator by use of the wrist band or the metal brush 
which is furnished with each battery. This must be 
used gently, but by it the electricity i? applied to the 
roots of the hair, creating a better circulation than can 
be had in any other way. The brush, of course, must 
be attached the same as the roller or sponge disc and 
the customer must hold the metal handle adjusted to 
one cord from the instrument. 

HEADACHE AND NEURALGIA MASSAGE. 

A very beneficial article for the Masseur, although 
partly varying from our instructions, is the following 
from Margaret Palmer's "Lessons on Massage." The 
treatment is intended for headache, neuralgia and like 
ailments and may be used very successfully in the 
barber shops, if handled precautiously. 



108 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 

MASSAGE OF THE HEAD. 

The operator stands in front, but rather to one side 
of the patient, who is seated. 

The head is steadied with one hand, the fingers of 
the other hand are drawn together, and firm friction 
is made over every part of the scalp. The pressure 
must be sufficient to move the scalp thoroughly on the 
skull ; this is sometimes difficult, owing to the tight and 
matted condition of the scalp ; sometimes the scalp on 
one side of the head is freely movable, and on the 
other almost fixed. Friction may also be done with 
the whole palmer surface of both hands working 
together. 

Mjuch relief is felt from these movements when the 
head is tired and heavy. They are said also to pro- 
mote the growth of the hair. 

A very soothing movement, useful in nervous head- 
aches and to promote sleep, is done with the cushions- 
of all fingers of both hands, working slowly in circles 
from occiput to forehead, without pressure ; the wrists 
are raised. Circular movements on the crown of the 
head are most soothing, as also are circular movements 
around the mastoid process. 

If used to induce sleep, the patient would probably 
be in bed ; in this case the movement should begin at 
the crown. 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 109 

THE FACE. 

1. The thumb is placed on the supra-orbital notch 
on the affected side, and the supra-orbital nerve is 
pressed against the bone ; this frequently arrests the 
pain. The course of the nerve upwards may be fol- 
lowed with friction with the thumb. 

2. Friction with the thumb from middle of fore- 
head to temple, effleurage from temple to middle line, 
following the course of veins. The tissue should be 
all well moved about and then stretched. 

When the pain is below the orbit, friction is done 
from the angle of jaw to middle of the mouth, press- 
ing on the maxillary bones. 

All the muscles of the cheek kneaded with the thumb 
and fingers, to be followed by circular effleurage with 
palm of hand. 

THE EYE. 

1. The cushion of the thumb is placed on the closed 
lid, pointing to the nose; by friction the lid is made 
to work over the eyeball. 

2. Stroking with the thumb from outer edge of 
orbit to nose on upper and lower lid. 

3. The lid picked up between the finger and thumb, 
and moved up and down. 



no THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 

4. Friction on supra and infra orbital, and supra 
and infra trochlear nerves, relieves pain in the eye. 

5. Gentle pressure from outer angle of eye, inwards 
to and dovv^n side of nose, relieves congestion and 
swelling. 

FACIAL PARALYSIS. 

1. The muscles of the affected side of the face are 
kneaded with thumb and finger. 

2. Friction of forehead and side of head and corner 
of mouth. 

3. Circular movements around mouth and eye. 

4. Vibrations with tips of fingers. 

STIFF JAW. 

1. Friction about the joint. 

2. Petrissage of all muscles that move the joint. 
Improvement may be tested from time to time by in- 
sertion of bits of wood between the teeth. A Screw 
gag is sometimes used. 

Any of the instruments, creams or tonics can be had 
at the MOLER BARBER SUPPLY HOUSE, 39 Peck 
Court, Chicago, 111. A beautiful catalogue of these 
goods is mailed free upon application. 



THE BARBERS' MANUAL. HI 

FORMULA FOR MOLER M'ASSAGE CREAM. 

Almond Oil 4 ounces. 

Spermaceti i ounce. 

White Wax i ounce. 

Benzoin 2 drops. 

Oil of Rose I drop. 

Heat almond oil, wax and spermaceti in double boiler 
until melted, add benzoin and oil of rose while cooling, 
and stir continually until thoroughly whitened. 

FORMULA FOR MOLER HAIR TONIC. 

(Dry scalp.) 

Bay Rum i pint. 

Witch Hazel i pint. 

Alcohol I pint. 

Glycerine 2 ozs. 

Tinct. of Cantharides 2 ozs. 

Ammonia ^ oz. 

Mix all together and filter. For oily scalp, use i 
oz. of glycerine instead of two. Peroxide of Hydrogen 
can be secured at any drug store. 



112 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 

TOILET WATER. 

Essence violet 8 ozs. 

Deodorized alcohol 7 pints 

Rose water i pint 

Mix and filter. 

PRICES. 

The prices in most establishments for this work 
are as follows, but they can be varied according to the 
conditions, the class of people to be operated on, etc. 

Facial Massage (finger manipulation) 25c to 50c 

Facial Mjassage (vibratory) 50c 

Facial Massage (electric) 50c 

Scalp Massage (all styles) 25c 



BOOK II. 

HAIRDRESSERS' MANICURING, FACIAL 

MASSAGE, ELECTROLYSIS AND 

CHIROPODY MANUAL. 



Hairdressers^ ManuaL 




'\.- '^*'4 




REQUIREMENTS OF HAIRDRESSER. 

In considering the idea of becoming a hairdresser, yoii 

will naturally question yourself regarding requirements 

necessary to insure success. First, the most important 

of all, is, will you be careful and painstaking; are you 



8 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 

willing to wait upon others, catering to whims and 
dictations, and at all times be patient and pleasant. 

Aside from your real skill, which can be obtained 
only by continual practice and careful instructions, 
these are the principal requirements. 

You must dress neatly, and if in the employment 
of others, be prompt and punctual. This is not work 
that requires any special adaptation, but, like other 
work that is mechanical, it requires practice. It is not 
true, as many believe, that you must be gifted with a 
particular talent, as anyone with ordinary ability can 
succeed if they have the patience to practice and if 
given the opportunity such as our Colleges afford. It 
has been demonstrated that the most awkward begin- 
ners are often the most graceful graduates. Grace and 
ease of motion are acquired by continued use of cer- 
tain muscles. 

Good taste has much to do with proper hairdress- 
ing and selecting styles suitable to all conditions. 
While it is true that some are more gifted than others, 
at the beginning of the term, it does not necessarily 
follow that they will be the most satisfactory grad- 
uates. 

The students who devote their undivided attention to 
instructions, and examples provided for them, will in- 
variably finish with the highest percentage. Careless- 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 9 

ness has no place in the hairdressing parlor, and one 
cannot hope to succeed, either in conducting an estab- 
lishment, or in the employ of others, without solicitude 
for the patrons* welfare. 

FURNITURE AND ARRANGEMENT OF ESTABLISH- 
MENTS. 

A neatly arranged parlor cannot help but attract 
attention, and has much to do with one's success in 
conducting their own business. It does not always 
require elaborate furniture or expensive outfits. An 
establishment for two or three operators can be fur- 
nished for $100, but to keep up with the latest styles 
in furniture and apparatus, it will require consider- 
able more. A well arranged parlor should contain 
separate booths or apartments with a low screen, one 
that will not affect the light, and in each apartment 
should be a low dressing table with a mirror of suf- 
ficient length for the customer to see herself while 
seated in front of it, and for the hairdresser to see 
the effect of her work as she progresses. A French 
dressing stand is suitable for this purpose, or a mirror 
placed on a shelf, from 2i/^ to 3 feet from floor, will 
suffice. 

Each booth should be provided with a gas iron 
heater, attached to ordinary gas jet, in the center of the 



10 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 

room. Or, still better, a gas pipe running along the 
wall in front of the number of booths required. 

Ordinary comfortable seating chairs with low back 
completes the furniture of each booth. 

If you are so located that city water can be ob- 
tained, the ordinary wash stand is sufficient for sham- 
poo purposes, in addition to an instantaneous water 
heater, as shown in the accompanying cut. This heater 




must be attached to the water and to the gas, and can 
be installed by any plumber or gas fitter, although few 
carry an instrument of this kind in stock. In case you 
do not want to go to this expense a five-gallon water 
can, can be arranged on brackets above the wash 
stand, suitable height to be out of the way. Under- 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 



11 



neath the can should be a gas, gasoline, or kerosene, 
heater; the water should be given the proper tempera- 
ture before using the spray. With this style of water 
can the faucet must be at the bottom in order to get 
the pressure of water to operate the spray. With the 
instantaneous heater the temperature is governed by 
a small lever that regulates the flow of gas and watei 
at the same time. 




HAIRDRYERS. 



12 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 

A hairdryer, if used, should be located convenient to 
the wash stand, so that it will not be necessary to take 
the customer any great distance while the hair is 
wet. 

There are many styles of hairdryers. One of the 
most expensive is that in which the electric fan and 
heater are arranged in a cabinet. With this the cur- 
rent created by the fan is heated by the flame of gas 
and tempered to suit the customer. Another style is 
the one in which the gas heater is inclosed in a sheet 
iron oven or tube placed in front of an electric fan 
in such a manner as to blow the hot air through the 
hair. Another style is the heater using gas only 
without the electric fan, but this is not considered as 
satisfactory, from the fact that hair should always 
be fanned or rubbed while being dried. 

If hairwork is part of the establishment, it is best 
to have it arranged in a back room if good light can 
be had; or in some apartment separate from the hair- 
dressing proper. The instruments for the work are de- 
scribed on the following page. 

In manicuring — and it should be a part of your 
work — a small table, similar to a sewing table, or one 
made especially for the purpose, can be arranged at one 
side of the room in such a manner that light will come 
from over the operator's shoulder. 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 



13 




There are regular manicuring tables made with glass 
top and ^vith drawers at the side for cream, powder and 



14 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 



all supplies necessary for the work. These are more 
sanitary, as the tops can be kept perfectly clean, and 
the articles used closed up in the drawers, free from 
the dust of the room. 

The Facial Massage, if part of the establishment, 
should be in a booth similar to the hairdressing booth. 
The chair for this purpose should be one that reclines 
similar to the Morris chair, or those used in barber 
shops. A small bracket with a drawer to hold cream. 




HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 15 

powder, etc., can be attached to the wall in front of 
chair, and on it placed a mirror similar to those used 
in hairdressing parlors; or a small table with drawer 
can be used in place of brackets. 

The same room or booth can be used for electrolysis 
or chiropody, if satisfactory light can be arranged; day- 
light is best. If it cannot be had, artificial light, with 
a shade, can be arranged close to the face or the foot 
as the case may require. 

No additional fixtures are required for electrolysis, 
except the battery and medicine for doing the work. 
For chiropody, a small foot tub is necessary and medi- 
cine cabinet within reach of operator while seated on a 
stool for the work. 

Any of this furniture or fixtures described can be 
had at Moler Supply House, 39 Peck Court, Chicago, 
111. 

One can keep pace with fashions in hairdressing as 
they change by subscribing for any of the hairdress- 
ing journals. The subscription price is usually $1.00 
a year. The styles that are in vogue to-day are soon 
out of date, and new ones taking their places. It there- 
fore is as necessary after becoming adept at the work 
to keep pace with styles, as it is to learn it properly in 
the beginning. This is a profession in which one can 
display rare taste and skill if studied carefully. 



16 HAIRDRlilShJEKS' MANUAL. 

Many ladies who do not care to go to the expense of 
fitting up an establishment, create a residence trade. 
By this method the hairdresser calls at the customer's 
home by appointment, and is entitled to a better fee 
than is usually asked in the hairdressing parlor. There 
is probably no woriv that will pay better than resident 
trade, when one is able to do manicuring and massage 
in connection with hairdressing. 

In the pages following every branch of the work, as 
taught in our college, is taken up in detail, and while 
it is not expected that you will become an expert 
from the instructions that this book gives, you will 
be greatly benefited by it. 

SELECTION AND CARE OF TOOLS. 
There is but one grade of tools used by professional 
hairdressers. They are peculiarly adapted to the work, 
and are entirely different from those used in private 
use. They must be kept in proper order to do proper 
work and by following instructions closely in this 
line, it will save a great deal of annoyance in your 
future work. 

CURLING IRONS. 
In selecting irons different sizes are needed. The 
waving irons run in sizes from No. 1 to No. 5. The No, 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAIv. 17 

4 is the ordinary or size that is most used. The pat- 
tern known as the "Marcel" waver is the one most 
used at present. Formerly the French waving- iron 
took its place. For curling-, the irons run in sizes 
same as the wavers, from No. 1 to No. 5, That used 
for curling^ the short hair around the temples and 
neck is No. 1 and that used for curling- long- hair is 
No. 4. This is also used in waving-, crimping- and 
curling" long- hair, as well as hair trimmed to be 
curled all over. The size used for large curls to ap- 
pear as natural curls is No. 5. A complete outfit con- 




sists of one of each size in both wavers and curlers, 
althoug^h a g-reat many hairdressers possess only 
about half this many. In selecting the brands, only 
the best French iron should be used as the cheaper 
brands soon warp with the heat and do not giye 
the hair the appearance of a natural, smooth curl. 
In selecting, always get the smooth ones that close 
tightly together from one end to the other. These 
irons are all without the spring which is found in 
irons used in priyate work. Great care should be 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL- 



used in heating- the irons not to get them too hot, as 
in overheating- they become roug^h and usually spring- 
out of shape. Should be very careful when the iron 
is hot, not to spring- it as when it cools it will not 
close tig-htly. It should be kept in a perfectly dry 
place to avoid rusting-. It is well to keep them 
wrapped in a dry cloth or chamois skin. As they be- 
come old and burned, they can be smoothed and re- 
polished with sand paper. 

HAIR BRUSHES. 

The best brush that can be used for ladies' hair is 
one known as the air cushion brush. The best g-rades 
are those made of genuine bristle, and of course are 




the most expensiye, although there is a similar wire 
brush made of good quality as serviceable, and an- 
swers the purpose almost as well. The air cushion 
brush is different from the ordinary hair brush from 
the fact that it is more pliable and elastic, which en- 
ables one to brush snarls from long hair better than 
the solid back brush. 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 



10 



COMBS. 



Jht r.e-^ 



"REFORM*' Gorr^hjiisio. 



The hard rubber comb is the one that has taken lead 
among the hairdressers recently. It is one that is 
strong and serviceable. The teeth are more easily 
kept clean, on account of their pyramid shape. They 
are almost unbreakable. These combs are made with 
all coarse teeth, or with one-half coarse, and one-half 
fine. Probably the latter is the best for all uses. 

There is a horn comb with metal back much cheaper 
and quite durable, but does not give the same satisfac- 
tion. The aluminum comb, among the cheaper grades, 
is probably the best^ from the fact that it can be 
sterilized. The celluloid comb should never be used 
in singeing the hair, as it is inflammable and danger- 
ous. 

Combs and brushes should be washed at regular in- 
tervals, in 10 per cent, solution of carbolic acid or 
formalin. The ordinary barber shears are the best 
for trimming the hair. 



20 



hairderssers' manuai,. 




An alcohol lamp is necessary to complete the outfit, 
as in calls to private houses it would be the only 
means of heating the iron. A small lamp, as shown 
in cut, is best for this use, and should be heated by 
alcohol in order to keep it from blacking- the iron and 
making- it unfit for use. 



WIGS AND SWITCHES. 

A wig is not always necessary, but is very useful 
in serving to show difi'erent or new styles of hair- 
dressing. It is also very convenient to have for prac- 
tice use, and can be used in practicing- new styles as 
they are brought forth. A switch is very convenient 
to have as in many styles of hair dressing- this is 
necessary. It is the t>ame as a wig- which only adds 
to your practice of new styles. Customers who wear 
switches oftentimes ask for the styles that appear in 
fashion plates, and by having one of these for j'our 
practice use you will be ab'e to accomodate all. 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAI^. 



21 




FIRST WORK. 
In beginning, first prepare by spread- 



22 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAt. 

ing- the hair cloth or apron over the person and pin 
it closely around the neck to protect the dress. Then 
take down the hair by removing all the hairpins and 
allowing- the hair to hang- straight down the back. 
A. chair of the ordinary height with low back should 
be used so that the back will not interfere with the 
hair while being dressed. 

COMBING. 

First, part the hair in the centre, then on the 
sides dividing it in four parts. Comb each division 
separately by holding the hair tightly close to the 
head and beginning at the extreme ends of the hair 
and working up as the snarls are removed. 

In parting the hair, hold the comb between the 
thumb and forefinger, drawing a straight line from 
nearly the crown of the head to the back of the ear. 
After the four divisions haye been combed out separ- 
ately, then comb it altogether straight down the back, 
which leaves it ready for crimping and dressing. 

CRIMPING. 

First, part the hair in the center from the fore- 
head about half way back to the crown, and then 
on the sides to the back of the ear. 

These lines must vary according to the thicknessof 



HAIRDRESSERS'' MANLAL,. 



23 




PARTING. 



24 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 



tnc nair or shape of the head. In thick hair, a small 
proportion should be divided off, and in thinner the 
part should be farther back. After this division is 
made, another pari should be made from near the 
back of the ear around the back of the head to the 
other side, leaving^ the crown in a division by itself, 
and should be twisted and pinned up out of the way. 
The balance of the hair should be crimped, curled or 
waved. 
In all first-class establishments the irons are 




GAS STVOE. 

heated by gas heaters, a small stove or burner made 
especially for this purpose. 

The iron should be put on the burner three or four 
minutes before ready for use. Hair should be parted 
in small strands for crimping-, beginning- at the back 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 



25 




CRIMPING. 



26 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 

of the head near the crown and working- forward and 
down until the side is finished. Curl both sides alike 
and then the back; just enough hair must be divided 
in each strand to fill the iron, making- a space of 
about an inch square. 

After the first strand is separated, take the iron 
from the burner and test the temperature by closing 
it on a piece of paper. If it does not scorch the paper 
it will not burn the hair, but it must be made as hot 
as possible and not burn. 

If the iron is overheated, it can be brought to the 
proper tempsrature by twirling- it in the hand until 
cooled sufficiently for use. It should never be dipped 
in water to cool, as it soon spoils the iron, in this 
way, causing- it to rust. With little practice you will 
be able to test the temperature by holding- it close to 
the face. 

Hold the iron closed in the right hand, pick up the 
strand of hair divided for the curl in the left hand; 
hold the iron about one inch from the head and be- 
gin by winding the hair around the iron, starting 
in the center of the iron and winding towards the 
end until about one-half of the length of the strand 
is crimped, then turn the iron down to the head, 
crimping it close to the roots. 

Hair should be wound around the iron from the 
^ront to the back, and on the back of the head begin- 



HAIBDRESSERS' MANUAL. 27 

ning at the upper part aod work down, winding the 
hair around the iron from the bottom up. 

When through curling, unpin the straight hair, the 
part that has been pinned up, comb it out, holding 
the hair close to the head with the left hand and 
combing it out with the right, beginning at the ends 
of the hair and working toward the roots. After the 
snarls are all taken out, comb the hair up and tie 
it close to the roots with a string, letting the ends 
hang down the back, then comb the crimps out at the 
back of the head first by taking the comb in the right 
hand close to the head, drawing it through the curls, 
giving it a loose, wayy appearance; then comb out the 
front, one side at a time; gather all of the crimped 
hair up by bringing the back hair up with the left 
hand and gathering the front in the right hand, let- 
ting the ends fall between the thumb and the finger of 
the left, then retie all of the hair together at the 
crown of the head, leaving the crimped hair loose 
enough to give a fluffy appearance. 

Now you haye the hair ready to dress in any style 
the customer wishes. The style that is used most at 
present is put up by dividing the hair crossyvays of 
the head, this leayes the hair divided into a top and 
bottom part. Take the top part in a twist or coil 
and pin it in place as shown. 



28 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 

This can be done up in a knot or pinned in coils 
to suit the style your customer desires. The lower 
half or part that you have left, twist in a coil hold- 
ing- the ends of the hair with the rig-ht hand, take 
the left near the centre of the strand, then bring- the 
ends up to the head and turn the hair over to make 
a loop. 

Be sure that the ends of the hair come under the 
loop, then make a second loop with the ends of the 
hair at the side of the head finishing by pinning the 
ends under the loops crossing them at the back of the 
head or curl the ends and pin them down in the cen- 
ter. This is the simplest style of dressing the hair 
and after once learned the styles as they change are 
easily followed. In pinning up the first or top coil- 
let the ends of the hair remain on the left side of the 
head, and in putting up the bottom coil, bring- the 
ends to the right, and as you finish pinning the ends 
of the hair, let them cross each other at the back 
of the head, otherwise you would not haye sufficient 
hair to pin to. 

This completes a plain hair-dress without bangs. 
This style of hair-dress can be used with a pompadour 
roll or a rat. They are made of wire or hair, and 
can be used on the front of the head, the sides or 
back. They are used by putting them on the head 
after the hair has been divided the same as it would 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 



29 



be for crimping-. When used on top, pin the roll on 
each side and in the center, then comb the hair, 
either crimped or straig-ht, over the roll, covering 
it entirely and giving the hair the appearance of 




PUI'FIXG. 
pompadour, often called the pompadour roll. When 
used on the sides, comb the hair over the roll at 
each side and comb it back flat on top, allowing- the 



:;0 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 

hair to roll out oti each side only. It can be used in 
che back the same way^ 

The hair can be dressed in puffs after it is crimped 
instead of coils, which is done by dividing- the hair in 
four or five strands, parting- it crosswise in as many 
strands as you want puffs. Comb the back strand out 
straig-ht, do not twist it in a coil as in dressing- the 
former style. Hold the ends of the hair in the left 
hand between the thumb and the fing-er. Place the 
forefinger of the right hand about an inch from the 
left and then bring the end of the hair oyer the right 
finger and roll the strand up by bringing one finger 
over the other inside of the little loop you have 
formed. When rolled to the head, hold it there in 
a puff with the forefinger of the left hand and spread 
it with the right hand, pinning the side of the puff 
close to the nead. Then remove the fingei of the 
left hand and pin that side the same, then so on 
with the next one until all the puffs are made, one 
after the other. To avoid having the puffs drop 
away from each other, put an invisible hairpin in 
the center of the puff, pinning them together. The 
best way to follow new styles is to watch the fashion 
plates that come out with the Hairdressing Journal, 
ard practice them on a wig before trying them on 
your customer. 



HAIRDRESSERS' MxiNUAL. 31 

HIGH HAIRDRESS— FRENCH DOUBLE DIP. 

In this style, tie the hair after parting and curling, 
same as in the former styles, except that it should be 
tied as high as the hair will allow. Begin by putting 




TIEING. 

up the front, standing on the right side of the customer, 
putting up the left dip first. 

The dip is made by first roughing the h?ir with the 
comb, which is accomplished by sliding the comb back- 



32 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 



ward through the hair toward the roots. Great care 
must be taken not to allow the teeth of the comb to 
extend through the under portion. After roughing., 
smooth the under side by combing toward the ends. 




ROUGHING. 

In making the dip, first twist the ends of the hair 
to the right with the left hand, keeping the first and 
second finger of the right hand about an ii;ch from the 
roots of the hair and draw the entire coil over the 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 



33 



finger, making a puff as shown in the cut. In draw- 
ing the finger from underneath the dip spread the hair 
into a roll. 




FORMING DIPS. 

The second dip is accomplished in the same way as 
the first. In dressing the sides, divide the hair cross- 
wise into two parts, bringing the upper half straight 
up and pin at the crown and then take the remaining 
half and pin over the other, excepting that it is pinned 



34 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 



a little farther back. Both sides are dressed alike. 
The back of the hair is now ready to be dressed. 

Part the hair crosswise and rough the upper half the 
same as the front dip, and twist from left to right in 
a coil, leaving the rough portion inside the coil. This 




HIGH FRENCH KNOT. 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 



35 



will leave the coil loose and fluffy, with a smooth ex- 
terior. Twist into a long coiffure by taking the right 
hand with the palm up underneath the coil and turn 
it, leaving the back of the hand up. Pin in place, 
leaving the high French knot. The remainder portion 
of this strand is puffed as shown in former cut (puf- 
fing), and pin in place at the side of the coiffure. 

Now, take the remainder of the hair, twist into a 
coil and make a half knot by holding the coil with the 




BOW KNOT. 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 




FRONT VIEW — COMPLETED. 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 



37 




BACK VIEW — COMPLETEDo 



38 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 

right hand a little way from the head, and taking the 
first finger of the right hand with the palm of the 
hand up and form a loop by turning the hand over, 
leaving the next strand around the first finger, then 
bring the strand over and draw upward through the 
loop so that it forms a bow knot, and pin down, mak- 
ing the form of a three-leaf clover. 

Ornaments should be worn on the left side. 
SIDE DIP— LOW HAIRDRESS. 

The front of this is put up the same as in the former 
style except that one dip is made instead of two and 
placed a little to the left. Tie back hair up as in the 
former style except have it a little below the crown. 
The hair is now ready to be dressed. Divide it into 
two parts by parting crosswise. First, twist into a roll 
and make a half figure 8 by holding the ends of the 
hair with the left hand. Take the first finger of the 
right hand underneath the roll, making a loop by turn- 
ing the right hand over with the first finger still in 
the knot. Then bring the strand around the knot with 
the left hand, forming a puff. Then pin in place and 
make a puff with the ends of the hair, making the I.t^^. 
puff at the side of the first one as shown. 

This puff is made different from the former ones, um 
the remaining ends are long and thin. Hold the ends 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 



39 




HALF FIGURE EIGHT. 

of the hair with the right hand and wind it around the 
first three fingers of the left hand, flatly rolling up 
the balance of the strand to the head and pin in place 
at the side of the coiffure. Twist the remaining portion 



40 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 




PUFF NO. 2. 



of the hair to the right tightly, and when doubled 
back it will form a half figure eight. Leave it long 
enough so that it comes about two inches below the 
roots of the lower hair. Pin in place. Twist the 
balance of the strand tightly to the right and place 
crosswise of the head into whole figure eight. Tuck the 
remaining short ends underneath and pin in place. 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 41 




BACK VIEW — COMPLETEc 



42 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 



MARCEL WAVE. 

This style of waving takes the place of crimping and 
can be used with any style of hairdress. It must be 
done with a particular style of iron, called the Marcel 
Iron. \Vlien properly done the hair remains waved 
longer and has the appearance of a naturally wavy 
head of hair. 




Before commencing, iLhampoo the hair and dry well. 
Begin waving the hair on the right hand side. Take 
a strand, not too thick, and make the first wave just 
above the ear. To obtain the first wave, the strand 
of hair must be held by the left hand. Irons should 
be held perpendicularly, as shown in cut, in the right 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 



43 



hand and the hair should be pressed with them with 
a slightly upward movement. The second wave is 
obtained by sliding the irons a little farther along the 
strand of hair, then pressing them with a slightly 
downward movement. This operation should be con- 
tinued right along to the end of the strand. 

The first strand having been properly waved in its 




full length, a small part of it should be taken and 
joined to the next in order to show exactly where the 
irons are to be placed along this second strand, so 
that when the hair is waved all over and nicely 
combed all the waves will fall properly into each 
other. 
K The right side being entirely finished, the left should 



44 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 



be proceeded with. The position in which the irons 
must be held should be carefully noted and care must 
be taken to always keep the hollow groove in the irons 
on the top. Proceed in the same way, taking up a 
small part of the first wave strand, in order to properly 
indicate the places where the second strand should be 
waved. 




The sides being waved, continue with the strand at 
the top of the head, taking a small part of the waved 
lock from the right side as an indication as to where 
the waves are to be made. 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 



45 



In oiuer to wave the nape of the neck, the head 
should be bent slightly forward, and the strand already 
finished fixed up on the top. The little locks at the 




nape of the neck should then be held with the left 
hand and waved with the right as previously shown. 

Ladies can easily keep the waves from disappearing 
by touching them up with the irons, even when the 
hair is dressed. 



46 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAl,. 

TRIMMING. 

Many styles of bang's are worn at different times, 
andthe form of trim ming-, like dressing-, can be learned 
from the fashion plates. The bang- worn on the top 
and sides is made by parting" the hair crosswise from 
the top of one ear to the other. If the hair is parted in 
the center, comb each side down; then take up a 
small lock, beg-inning at the top or the part, and cut 
it off the proper leng-th, usually from two to three 
inches, depending- entirely upon the shape of the 
forehead ; then pick up the next lock under- 
neath, cut the same length, but be careful and hold 
the hair down when cutting- instead of straight up, 
and so on until all the bangs are trimmed the proper 
length. Be careful to get each side alike. Comb the 
short hair forward over the forehead and cut in a V 
shape, a bout even with the eyebrows. Then comb the 
sides out, holding it between the thumb and finger of 
the left hand, cutting it even, making it gradually 
shorter close to the ear, then comb it straight and 
trim the lower edge nearly to the bottom of the ear. 
Other styles can be trimmed in the same way, follow- 
ing new fashion plates. 

In case the hair is to be cut all over, it must be 
trimmed the same as a barber shingles hair, and foi- 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 47 

low the same line of instructions as given in our 
Barbers' Manual, except that the neck is never shaved. 
Be very cautious and not get the lower part of the 
hair trimmed close to the head, as it must be left long- 
enough to curl. This is the only difference in trim- 
ming short hair for ladies and men. 

SHAMPOOING. 

Comb the hair out the same as in dressing it to pre- 
pare it for shampoo. There are a great many sub- 
stances used in giving a shampoo. The kind most 
fayored by hair dressers is the liquid, a formula of 
which is given in the back part of the book. This is 
applied by using the regular barbers' bottle, so made 
that you may hold it by the neck and apply the sham- 
poo as wanted. Hold the bottle in the left hand, pour 
on a small portion at a time and rub with the right. 
This will form a lather, and a sufficient amount must 
be used to thoroughly wet or suds the hair. Start 
on the top and work the suds down to the sides, 
being careful not to let the lather get into the custo- 
mer's eyes or on the face. Then gather the long 
hair up from the back of the head in the right hand 
and apply the shampoo with the left until the hair 
Is thoroughly lathered to the ends. Then set the 
bottle down, hold the long hair up oyer the head 



4^ HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 

without allowing- it to tang-le and rub the roots of the 
hair with the risrht. Never rub the long- hair in such 




SHAMPOOING. 



a way to tangle it. After the scalp has been 
thoroughly cleaned and rubbed, your customer is 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 49 

ready for the rinsing. In preparing your customer 
you should be very cautious in putting the towel 
around the back of the neck to protect the dress. 

Where you have a hot and cold water apparatus, 
see that the water is perfectly temperatured betore 
gettingyourcustomer under the spray. In preparing 
the wash stand, lay a towel on the stand that the 
customers may rest their elbows on it in leaning over 
the bowl. A stool of the proper height is most con- 
venier*^ ^^or your customer to sit on while the hair is 
being ruioed. After the wash stand is prepared, take 
your customer to the stand and have the head bent 
over far enough so that the water will not run down 
the neck while being applied. Take the spray in the 
left hand, and as the water is turned on, be careful 
that it is not allowed to wet the collar of the dress. 
Turn the hair down over the head at the top and 
begin rinsing at the roots. First thoroughly cleanse 
the scalp and use sufficient water to get the soap 
all out. Work carefully down to the ends of the hair 
without tangling it. The greatest miiitake is in not 
using sufficient amount of water to thoroughly cleanse 
it, which will cause it to be sticky in drying. 

After the hair is thoroughly rinsed, wring as much 
water out of it as possible, and dry it enough so that 
the water will not run down the neck or over the 
eyes when the customer raises up from the bowl. 



50 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 



In taking- the customer back to the chair, hold the 
hair on the top of the head with a towel placed over 
the hair in such a way as to protect the face and 
clothing. 




DRYING. 
Beg-in the drying- by letting the hair fall down over 
the back and thoroughly rubbing the scalp with a 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 51 

;.oweJ antjl partly dried, and complete by fanning- or 
laying- it over 'ihe electric or gas hair dryer.Hair dryers 
are objected, to by a great many customers, and in 
this ca.s<i the hair skould be fanned with the left 
hand, and at the same time rub the head with the 
rig-ht, allowing the hair to pass through it. , 

Hair dried without rubbing is more harsh and stiff 
than if it is rubbed well while being- dried. In 
medium hair the drying usually requires from twenty 
minutes to a half hour. 

After the hair is thoroughly dried, it is well to 
brush it until it becomes soft and g-lossy, then it is 
ready for combing- and dressing- Hair immediately 
after being shampooed is harder to handle than be- 
fore. 

There are many different kinds of shampoo, such 
as the eg-g- shampoo, which is done the same as with 
soap except that the substance is prepared by using- 
eg-g-s well beaten, same as g-iyen in the formula in 
the back of the book. 

A dry shampoo is usually g-iven by washing- the hair 
thoroughly in alcohol and rubbing until dried or 
evaporated. No water is used for this style of sham- 
poo. 

Where the customer prefers their hair to be washed 
with certain brands of soap use the soap in the 
left hand and the water bottle in the right, and apply 



53 HAIRDRESSER,^' MANUAI^. 

water and rub the soap on the head until sufficient 
lather is obtained. 

Many times a tonic is required after the sham- 
poo. Apply it after the hair has been partly dried, 
then finish drying- the hair so that the tonic as well 
as dampness may be evaporated. 

Sea foam cannot be used in ladies* work, unless 
washed out the same as shampoo. 

SINGEilNG. 

This process of burning- the ends of the hair is for 
the purpose of keeping^ it from splitting at the ends 
and is recommended for falling- hair. When it be- 
comes dead or dry, it splits and spoils the growth. 
By burning the ends, it closes the pores and keeps the 
fluid in the hair and gives it a livelier and healthier 
appearance. It often stops hair from falling- out and 
is one of the best means to invigorate dull or dead 
hair. 

Singeing is done with a wax taper made especially 
for the purpose or by an alcohol burner that allows a 
small flame to peep through a perforated surface. 
Wax tapers are usually recommended and can be ob- 
tained at any wholesale house or you may use the 
ordinary gas lighting taper. 

The hair is taken down and combed out, the same 
as preparing it for a shampoo. Take a small strand 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL 53 

sepaio-Lt^lv and twist it firmly in order to compel the 
short ends of the hair to spring- out from the coil 
also to prevent from catchinf,^ fire as the sing-er is 
passed over the hair to catch the protruding- ends. 
Hair is often trimmed in this way, but in trimming 



SINGEING. 

't does not prevent the hair from re-splitting- as in 
singeing. Continue clear around the head until all 
the ends have been touched. When hair is uneven 
at the ends, it can be trimmed with the shears or 
singed evenly by combing the hair straig-ht down the 



54 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 



back and touching- the long- ends with the sing-er or 
shears. 

After sing-eing- hair should be well brushed in order 
to brush the burnt ends off and avoid the appearance 
of singed hair. 




CI,IPPING. 

Where a head is to be sing-ed and shampooed both, 
always shampoo first as it remoyes the oil from the 
hair, makes it lighter and easier to get at with the 
singer. 



HAIBDRESSERS' MANUAL. 55 

BLEACHING. 

In bleaching-, remember that the hair must be thor- 
cug^hly shampooed and dried as the bleach will not 
take effect on oily hair. 

Comb the hair out the same as preparing- it for 
dressing-, part it in the center as far back as the 
crown and begin by applying- the bleach with a tooth 
brush at the roots of the hair along- the part. Then 
divide the hair off in strands and apply the bleach 
until the roots of the hair haye been thoroughly 
dampened. Rub the bleach in at the roots and be 
careful that no hair is missed. Apply the bleach 
with a tooth brush as far down on the strand as is 
necessary, the balance or the ends of the hair can 
be dipped into the bowl of bleach. 

Bleach is not injurious to the scalp and should be 
applied to the roots of the hair, although it is not 
well to soak it as you would with a sponge. The 
material is quite expensive and should be used spar- 
ingly. In dipping the ends of the hair in the bowl, 
wring them out carefully to prevent its dripping as 
the bleach removes the color from anything- it touch- 
es. In case the ends cannot be wrung out to prevent 
them dripping, bring- the ends up over the top of the 
head and rub them thoroughly among- the roots of 
the hair. 



S6 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 

Peroxide of Hydrog-en is about the only material 
used for this purpose. More than one application is 
usually necessary, although this depends entirely on 
what shade the customer wants her hair. Each ap- 
plication lightens it to a certain degree. Black hair 
is bleached much easier than the lighter shades. 

DYEING. 

There are a great many kinds of dyes used in ladies 
work. Probably the most to be recommended at 
present is the kind where one application will do the 
work. In using this sort of a dye, you must select 
the shade you want, and after being applied it re- 
quires time in the air and sun light to bring" it to the 
proper shade. Other kinds of dye are applied by 
using two ingredients usually called No. 1 and No 2, 
or A and B. This is instantaneous and comes in seven 
different shades. 

In dyeing, first shampoo the hair and see that it is 
thoroughly cleaned and dried the same as in bleach- 
ing, then apply the first ingredient or No. 1 with a 
tooth brush the same as bleach, only being careful 
to keep it from the scalp as it colors anything it 
touches. Apply it the same as bleach, and as soon as 
No. 1 is on and dried, apply No. 2 in the same way. 
No. 2 is the one that colors. In applying both ingre- 



HAIEi)i^ESSERS' MANUAL. 57 

dients, the hair should be thoroughly rubbed and wet 
with the tooth brush, being- careful that none of it 
escapes. The ends of the hair cannot be dipped the 
same as in bleaching, and roust be applied to the 
ends the same as the roots. This is the most tedious 
part of ladies' hairdressing, and the prices for this 
work are according to the amount of material you 
have used and the work you have done. 

In using other dyes such as Buckingham's and all 
brands that use only the one ingredient, apply it the 
same as No. 1 in the former explanation. 

There are other dyes that are to be applied with a 
fine comb. As directions are g^iven with all dyes to 
be used, it is only necessary to follow direetions in 
applying it. Different formulas for dyes are given in 
the back of the book, and can be obtained at any drug 
store. 

Hair can be crimped and dressed as soon as the 
dye is thoroughly dried, but twenty-four hours after 
it is applied, it must be shampooed as some kinds of 
dye leave the hair sticky. 

In shampooing it do hot use shampoo paste or 
strong soap. First prepare a suds with warm water 
and some mild brand of soap. Take the customer to 
the wash stand and have the suds poured over the 
head and rubbed lightly before using the spray in 
order to remove the superfluous dye from the hair. 



5S HAIKDRESSEKS' MANUAL. 

SCALP MASSAGE. 

Finger Manipulation, Vibratory and Electric. 

Scalp Massage is a part of hairdressing and taught 
in the same course. It is a treatment for diseased or 
unhealthy scalp, as well as to prevent falling hair, 
dandruff and other diseases. 

The unhealthy scalp, as a rule, has poor circulation 
and has usually grown tight to the head. Finger Manip- 
ulation is for the purpose of loosening and creating a cir- 
culation, and is assisted by vibratory or electric bat- 
tery. 

Tonics are essential as well as massage in this work, 
and the formulas on the following pages are the best 
we have found for this purpose. There is no positive 
cure for bald head, but they have some time been 
benefited by massage, which should be given imme- 
diately after the shampoo. 

THE FIRST WORK. 
Part the hair from front to back, beginning 
at the top, apply the tonic with a small sponge 
or small bits of cotton, soaked in the tonic, so 
that it will thoroughly moisten the scalp. In case 
you use the sponge, thoroughly cleanse it after using 
it on each customer, by rinsing it in 10 per cent, solu- 
tion carbolic acid or formalin. 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 59 

Pour the tonic in a saucer or similar receptacle, take 
the sponge or cotton in right hand, steady the head 
with the left hand, apply the tonic to scalp where the 
hair is parted. Continue by parting the hair about 
one inch below the first part, starting on the right side, 
working clear around the head to the left. Each part 
should be about one inch below the previous one. The 
object being to apply the tonic only to the roots and 
not to the hair itself. 

After the scalp is well saturated, begin the massage 
with the shuttle movement. Massage with balls of 
the fingers, and not with the finger nails. The object 
is to loosen the scalp by moving the fingers back and 
forth, allowing the movement of one hand to work 
opposite to the other. Continue by working up to 
the top of the scalp, always standing behind the cus- 
tomer. 

The next movement is to place the balls of the 
fingers of the left hand on top of the scalp, and with 
the right manipulate from back of neck to crown, 
keeping the fingers about one inch apart. Press firmly, 
so that the fingers will have the tendency to loosen the 
scalp without pulling the hair. After treating the 
entire scalp in this manner continue with the hands, as 
fivsf described, using a rotary movement. 



60 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 



In case the tonic is not to be used, proceed with 
massage movements as directed. The vibrator massage 
can be used in place of finger manipulation, or in 
addition to finger manipulation, as follows: 




VIBRATORY MASSAGE. 
The Vibratory Massage is not an electric appliance, as 
is generally supposed. The movement of the apparatus 
is attained by use of electric motor, but no electricity 
is applied to the scalp. The movement is a short 
vibrating action so rapid that in itself it is a pleasant 
sensation and leaves a very pleasant feeling to the 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 61 

scalp. This apparatus can only be used where electric 
or water power is obtainable. 

The ordinary flexible shaft vibrators cannot be used 
to advantage in scalp massage, where the hair is long, 
as the rapidly moving mechanism is liable to get fast 
in the hair, but the vibrator used by our system gives 
a natural vibratory hand massage and is applied by 
attaching the hand to instrument in place of rubber 
cup. Instructions for operating the apparatus are 
shown in the following pages. 

After the right hand has been attached to the in- 
strument and thrown in motion, steady the head by 
placing the left hand on top of the scalp, and with 
the right hand in motion from the vibration of ma- 
chine place the tips of fingers on the scalp firmly enough 
to keep them from tapping, work from bottom up, con- 
tinuing clear arourd the head. This is especially good 
for headaches, neuralgia and like ailments. More work 
can be accomplished in one minute with the vibrator 
than in twenty minutes with ordinary finger manipula- 
tion. Never give more than five minutes of this 
treatment at one time, but it should be given at least 
once a week to keep the scalp stimulated and in a 
healthy condition. 



62 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 



ELECTRIC SCALP MASSAGE. 
In many cases electric treatment for the scalp is pre- 
ferred to other methods, and it may be given, in addi- 
tion to finger manipulation. The faradic current is 
used for this purpose. Full instructions for the use 
of this battery is given on the following pages. 




There are different ways of applying electricity to 
the scalp. Allow your customer to choose the method 
preferred, but if the operator is allowed to use her 
method, select the most beneficial for the case. If to 
be used in connection with the finger manipulation first 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 63 

attach the wrist electrode to wrist of right arm, have 
the customer hold the metallic handle attached to the 
battery, proceed as in the first instruction in finger 
manipulation. This applies a mild, soothing current 
through the operator. The connection is only formed 
while the fingers are on the scalp. 

If brush is preferred in place of wrist electrode, the 
brush instead of wrist band is attached to the cord, 
and the hair thoroughly brushed, being careful to keep 
to the roots of the hair. The brush should follow the 
finger manipulations. 



64 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 



SHAMPOO LIQUID. 

Bay rum 3.qts. 

Tr. Cantharides Yz oz. 

Carbonated amtnonia Yz 02. 

Sal Tartar 1 oz. 

After using, cleanse the hair with clear water. 

IDEAL HAIR DRiiSSING. 

Lanoline 4 ozs. 

Rosewater 1 oz. 

Lard, prep 1 oz. 

Oil rose 10 drops. 

• HAIR DYE. 
NO. 1. 

Gallic acid 20 grs. 

Alcohol 5 drs. 

Water 2 drs. 

NO. 2. 

Silyer nitrate 1 dr. 

Ammonia 3 drs. 

Gum arable 30 drs. 

Water 6 drs. 

Dissolve the silver nitrate in the ammonia and the 
gum arabic in the water, then mix. 



HAIR BIvEACH. 

Peroxide of Hydrogen can be secured at any drug 

store , 

HAIR DYE. 
Nitrate of silver 20 grs. 

Sulphite of copper 2 grs. 

Ammonia Q. S. 

Distilled Water ■ Q. S. 

Dissolve the salts in ^ oz. water and add ammonia 
until the precipitate which is formed is redissolyed. 
Then make up to 1 oz. with water. Apply to the hair 
with old tooth or nail brush. This solution slowly 
gives a brown shade. For darker shades apply a 
second solution composed of — 

Yellow sulphide ammonia 2 drs. 

Solution of ammonia 1 dr. 

Distilled water 1 oz. 

COLD CREAM. 

Vaseline 14 ozs. 

Paraffin 1 oz. 

Eanoline 4 ozs. 

Water 6 ozs. 

Attar of Roses 5 drops. 

Vanilin 4 grs. 

Rect. spirits 2 drs. 

MOLER HAIR TONIC. 

Bay Rum 1 qt. 

Witch Hazel 1 qt. 

Glycerine 4 oz. 

Tr. Cantharides 1 oz. 

Ammonia 14 oz. 

Rose Water 1 pt. 



66 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 

PRICES FOR HAIRDRESSING. 

The average prices for hairdressing in iirst-class 
establishments range about as follows, although the 
price is usually double where the hairdresser makes 
priyate calls: 

Hairdressing, plain $ 50 

Hairdressing, fancy 75c to 1 00 

Trimming top bangs 15 

Trimming top and side bangs 25 

Trimming and curling top bangs 25 

Trimming and curling top and side bangs 35 

Shampooing, medium length 50 

Shampooing, heavy hair 75c to 1 00 

Shampooing' short hair 25 

Trimming short hair all over 25 

Trimming and curling short hair all over 50 

Singeing short hair all over 25 

Singeing long hair 50 

Bleaching medium length,each application 50 

Bleaching long hair, each application. .... 1 00 

Dyeing short hair all over 2 00 

Dyeing medium length 5 00 

Dyeing long hair $ 5 00 to 10 00 

Dyeing heavy gray hair ^10 00 to 15 00 

Scalp massage 50 

Scalp massage, electric 75 

Scalp massage, vibratory 1 00 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 

HAIR WORK. 
Hair work is the art of making hairgoods, switches, 
etc. It is not really a part of the hairdressing, but is 
very essential in connection with this work. Few 
hairdressing parlors are established without this one 
important branch. The work can usually be done during 
the hours one is not steadily engaged at the hairdress- 
ing chair, and is one that yields a good profit. In 
the pages following, will be shown the instruments neces- 
sary for doing the work, and a complete course of in- 
structions on the manufacturing of everything in the 
hairgoods line, except wigs, which is a separate trade 
in itself, and in taking up hairwork it is not neces- 
sary. 

In nearly every hairdressing parlor ladies bring their 
combings to be made into switches, bangs, pompadour 
rolls and other articles of false hair. Orders for these 
goods can be sent to the wholesale house, to be made 
up at fairly good profit, but by being able to do this 
work one can utilize time that would otherwise be 
wasted. 

SELECTION AND CARE OF TOOLS. 
The hackle is the first instrument used, and is for 
the purpose of straightening tangled hair, or combings. 
It is made in two sizes. No. i and No. 2. In large 



68 



HAiRDRESSERS* MANUAL. 



establishments, where a great deal of work is being 
done, No. 2 would be the best size to select. 

The hackle is fastened to work stands or table by 
means of screws at each end, and should be so fastened 
that it can be easily taken off to be cleaned, as in the 
work of straightening the hair it becomes filled with 
dust and short hairs. 




The short tufts of hair that become tangled in the 
teeth should be picked out with a hairpin or any smalJ 
instrument that will work well through the teeth, and 
after removing it from the work stand can be thor 
oughly scrubbed. There is no difference in length of 
teeth or distance apart in the two sizes. The dif- 
ference is in the number of teeth each contains. 




HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 69 

THE NEEDLE ROOTER. 
The needle rooter is for the purpose of separating 
the long hair from the short after it has been straight- 
ened in the hackle. It comes in two sizes, of one and 
two rows of needles. The double row is best for estab- 
lishments and for knitting, but the smaller one will 
answer the purpose for ordinary use. It is also fastened 
to table or work stand by screws and can be cleaned in 
the same manner, as the hackle, although it will not 
need it as frequently, as the hair is in better condition 
when it is ready for this instrument. 

It is generally supposed that the rooter is for the. 
purpose of arranging the roots of the hair all at the 
one end, but this is impossible in working with comb- 
ings, but it must be used to arrange the ends of the 
hair evenly. 

WEAVING CARD. 

Weaving cards come in pairs of the same size and 
arranged with teeth of wires very short and closely 
woven together, and are used by the operator for keep- 
ing the hair straight while manufacturing. In weav- 
ing it will be pulled from between the cards as it is 
needed, the remainder being kept intact by the short 
wires or teeth. 



70 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 



The teeth are all bent in one direction, and the hair 
to be pulled in opposite direction; this prevents it 
from tangling between the cards. It is used in weav- 
ing, ventilating or in manufacture of all hair goods. 
These can be kept clean by combing out with the ordi- 




nary comb, lliis will be necessar3% as frequently as the 
shade of hair is changed. The foundation or card in 
itself is of heavy leather, in which the teeth are in- 
serted and fastened. 




HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 



71 



WEAVING STICKS. 

The weaving sticks, or looms, are so made that they 
may be fastened to a table or stand, by wooden set 
screws, and are easily detached or adjusted. If fastened 
to the table it must be of sufficient length to allow the 
operator to weave on the threads that run from one 
to the other. 

Weaving sticks are made both of metal and wood 
and others are made of part metal and part wood. 
The latest kind is that on wKich the spools of thread 
are fastened with thumb screw, saving the trouble of 
rewinding the thread on the spool, as is necessary 
with the old-style weaving loom. Another advantage in 
this kind of loom is that they never slip or loosen the 
thread, as does the old style. The wooden looms should 
be kept in a dry place, so that the dampness cannot 
affect them and render them useless after having 
dried out. No care will be necessary otherwise. 




NEEDLE CARD. 



72 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 

Needle cards are not an actual necessity. They are 
only used to keep the hair straight. They are made 
only in one size and consist of two parts; the lower 
part, in which the hair is laid, is similar to the hackle, 
inasmuch as the appearance of needles are concerned. 
The upper part is to be placed over lower to hold the 
hair in place. 




MOUNTING MACHTST:. 
The mounting machine is for mounting "switches and 

curls. It is to be attached to a table by means of a 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 



•3 



thumb screw. It is easily taken off and aduated. Turn- 
ing the crank, the cord is made to revolve as the 
switch is mounted. It is made entirely of iron and 
needs no care except that it should be kept free from 
rust and oiled as often as required. 




THE VENTILATING BLOCK. 
The Ventilating Block, or wig block, is made of wood. 
in the shape of the skull. It is an article on which the 
ventilating net is attached. It is also used for dress- 
ing wigs to illustrate fancy styles. The more ex- 
pensive blocks are hard wood, and should be well sea- 
soned to prevent splitting. The less expensive ones are 
softer material and will answer the purpose for ordi- 
nary use. There are also some made of papier mache. 
porcelain and glass, but the wood are the only suitable 
ones for ventilating. 



74 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 




ADJUSTABLE BLOQv HOLDER. 
The Block Holder is the instrument to which the 
block should be attached in ventilating. It is not as 
essential as some of the other instruments in manufac- 
ture of hair goods, as the block can be held in the lap, 
but will be found a great convenience. It is so con- 
structed that the mounted block can be adjusted to any 
position. It is made entirely of iron and very durable.^ 
It can be fastened to table or stand same as mounting 
machine. 



KAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 




PRESSING IRON. 

A pressing iron is a very convenient instrument to 
have for the purpose of pressing switches, but is not 
considered a necessity. This completes the outfit. Any 
of these instruments can be had at the Moler Supply 
Houfe, 39 Peck Court, Chicago, 111. 

MANUFACTURING SWITCHES. 

First Work: Hackling Combings. 
If the switch is to be made of combings, the hair 
must be first picked apart in order to prepare it for 
the hackle, as it cannot be hackled in the condition 
combings are usually delivered to the hairdresser. This 
is essential, as the hair would be broken in short ends 
if it were to be hackled without first being picked apart 
in a loose condition. After the hair has all been picked 
apart, take a small amount in the hands and draw it 
out to the ends of the hair to get it as straight 
as possible. Take a small quantity at a time. 

The hair at first must T)e arawn lightly over the 
hackle, not allowing it to take up more than one- 
third of the length of the teeth. If it were to be 



76 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 




drawn entirely through the hackle, it would require so 
much force that the hair would be broken into short 
lengths. After you have the hair straightened as much 
as possible, place it in the rooter, to be held for fur- 
ther treatment. Continue until you have the desireri 
amount straightened. 

Remove all of the hair from the rooter in a body and 
draw it through the hackle again, being very careful 
to hold the ends tightly to prevent part of it draw- 
ing out of the hands and tangling in the teeth of the 
hackle. Draw through as many times as necessary 
to have it perfectly straight. Now you have the hail 
prepared for the rooter. Take about half the amount 
of hair necessary for the ordinary switch (bdng care- 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 77 

ful not to tangle the hair); hold it in the left hand at 
about the center of the strand, and with the right 
hand, place the longer ends in the rooter and draw the 
strands of shorter hair from the longer ones. Continue 
in this manner, changing ends with the strand until 
you have all of the longer ones separated from the 
short. Remove the strands you have in the rooter to 
keep them separate from the short lengths, as this 
will be necessary for the outer covering of the switch. 
It will not be necessary to root the balance of tlie 
strand, as after the longer ones are separated, th3 
shorter ones will be even enough for use. In the ordi- 
nary combings, there will be about one-eighth of the 
entire amount, long hair. This is to be placed in thg 
weaving cards, separate from the shorter lengths, and is 
to be woven first in the outer strands with one-third 
of the amount of short hair that you have for the 
entire switch. The remainder of the hair is to be 
placed in the needle cards to be kept straight while 
manufacturing the first strand. 

Place the weaving sticks about a yard apart on a 
table of convenient height, or work stand for the pur- 
pose. Three spools of thread will be required on the 
holders intended for them on the loom at the right. 

Take the three ends from the spools, unwind them 
to a sufficient length to reach the weaving stick on the 



78 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 

other side, being careful not to twist or tangle the 
threads. Tie the three ends together and attach them 
to the weaving stick at the left, so that they can be 
drawn tight. Tighten each one separately by turning 
the spool and fasten the same with the thumb screw 
for this purpose. Now, thoroughly wax your threads 
with ordinary beeswax and rub them well with a 
cloth. This is to strengthen the threads and enable the 
hair to slip to its place at the end of the strand. 

Weaving. 
Now you are ready for weaving. Beginning with the 
long hair, pull a small strand from the weaving cards, 
taking those from the very ends. Take an amount, that 
if rolled tightly would be about the size of a No. 20 
thread. This is for the covering of the first strand. 
The covering is Avoven in a double weft. In drawing 
the strand from the weaving cards, draw it part way 
out with the thumb and finger of the right hand, wind 
the strand around the second finger of the left hand, 
leaving about two inches of the end protruding. Be care- 
ful to hold the strand tightly with the third and lit- 
tle finger, and with the finger and thumb. Begin by 
holding the strand with the thumb and finger back of 
the lower thread, drawing the top of the strand through 
with the thumb and the finger of the right hand, roll 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 79 

ing the strand as it is drawn in place, keeping the hair 
together. Bring it over the two threads and with tlie 
thumb and finger of the left hand, hold it in place and 
draw it through between the top and second thread. 
Now, bring the ends under the three threads with tne 
thumb and finger of the right hand, hold it in place 
with the finger of the left hand, draw it between the 
top and center thread, carry it over the top thread with 
the thumb and finger of the right hand. Push the 
strand between the top and center thread with the 
finger of the left hand, grasp it with the thumb and 
finger of the right hand and carry it underneath the 
lower thread and carry back between the top and 
center thread with the finger of the left hand. Grasp 
the strand again with the thumb and finger of the 
right hand, carry it over the thread, push it between 
the top and center thread with the finger of the left 
hand. Grasp it again with the thumb and finger of 
the right hand. Finish it up by pulling it between 
the center and lower thread with the thumb and finger 
of the right hand. Pull the strand doAvn with the 
thumb and finger of the left hand to within about a 
half-inch of the end of the strand. Take the short end 
between the thumb and finger of the right hand, allow- 
ing the longer end of the strand to pull down tightly 
over the first finger of the right hand, twisting in such 



80 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 

a way that the short ends will all fall on the side of 
the weft toward you. This is the improved French 
double weft. The double weft is to be woven only 
about three inches, a sufficient length for the covering. 
The single weft is the same as the double with the ex- 
ception that the last stitch is omitted, and can be 
woven in larger strands, taking nearly twice the amount 
of hair for each strand. 

Finish weaving the amount of short hair that you 
have in the cards on this strand. Having finished the 
strand, tie the end by weaving a thread at the end in 
the same manner that the hair is woven. This thread 
is woven in for the purpose of keeping the strands 
apart. Wind the amount already woven around the 
weaving stick at the left by loosening the spools on 
the stick at the right, tightening them again when th- 
woven strand is wound in place. 

Begin the second strand with a thread woven th 
same as you finished the first one, starting about fou 
inches from the one just completed. 

You now have two-thirds of the short hair left in 
the needle cards. Divide this in two equal parts, place 
in the weaving cards and proceed as before, making two 
more strands. These are to be woven single weft. 
^ATien the three strands are completed, cut them apart, 
take off the end threads that have been woven in place 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 



81 



ot the hair, tie the end of your threads in an ordinary 
hard knot, leaving the three strands ready for mount- 
ing. If cut hair, or hair boughten for the purpose, is 
used instead of combings, weave in the same manner, 
but it will not require hackling, and the strands can be 
woven shorter, as the stem is made shorter in mount- 
ing. 




MOUNTING. 
First wind the mounting cord on the spool of the 
mounting machine, the same as winding thread on a 



82 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 

spool. Fill it by holding the cord and turning the 
machine backward, or in the opposite direction from 
the way it should turn while mounting. 

Wind on the spool a sufficient amount for your 
switch, which should be about a yard. Begin by sewing 
the mounting cord at the end of one of the shorter 
strands by holding the hair in the left hand with the 
inner part of the strand toward you. This would be 
the part where the short ends protrude at the top of 
the strand. It should be sewed on with the ordinary 
sewing silk, which should be as near the shade of the 
hair as possible. You must sew it especially strong 
as this is the only place the mounting cord is sewed to 
the switch except at the top. 

Wind the mounting cord over the hook at the end 
of the spool about six times to keep it from slipping 
on the machine. Begin by turning the crank of the 
mounting machine, which will twist the cord, and roll 
the strand. ' Hold the strand of hair in the hand in 
such a manner that in rolling in a spiral up the cord 
and not straight around. This leaves the lower part, 
or part to which the cord was originally attached, in 
the center of the switch. It must be made thin and 
pliable. Sew the top end of the strand to the cord. 
Cut the strand from the mounting machine about one 
inch from the top of the hair. The first strand is now 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 83 

completed. Proceed with the next short strand in the 
same way, and the third one in the same manner to 
within about three inches of the end, then sew the 
cord securely to the weft. Now, if there is any dif- 
ference in the length of the two short ones, take the 
shortest, sew it on at the point where you have fastened 
the cord to the weft for the outer strand. Turn the 
outer strand around the one you have just completed. 
Fasten the third and last strand on the opposite side, 
sewing the three securely together. Trim oflF the short 
ends of mounting cord that you have left in detaching 
the strands from the mounting machine. You now 
wijid the silk thread around the mounting cord attached 
to the switch covering about an inch and a half, wind- 
ing it close enough so that only the silk thread is 
visible. Cut ofT the mounting cord about a half-inch 
from the end of the covered portion, bring the end down 
and make a loop by sewing the other end to the weft. 
This is called, covering and making the loop. Now, wind 
the balance of the weft around the point where you 
have made the loop, and sew in place as you pro- 
ceed. WTien you have reached the end, sew it securely 
in place and cut off the knot that has been made at 
the end of the strand. A pinching iron^ is best for mak- 
ins: the top at the loop perfectly smooth, but if you 



84 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 

have none for this purpose, press it as smooth as pos- 
sible with any other convenient instrument. 

Now, wind your thread around the top from the 
loop down an eighth of an inch. Fasten the end of 
the thread in place by stitching through the top of 
the switch and back through the loop. Several stitches 
of this kind will be necessary in order to keep the 
thread from slipping over the loop. This completes the 
switch. 

This is the usual way of making switches, but there 
are variations that can be followed. One is the stem- 
less switcli. made by weaving in two strands mounted 
by folding the weft in folds of about two inches in 
length, and the two strands sewed together in the cen- 
ter. Another style of mounting is by ^king a clock 
spring, that can be had at any jewelry store, cut it 
about nine inches long, straighten it out and cover it 
with wig riV)bon. Form in a circle and sew the weft 
to the spring. This style of switch is used to best 
advantage where oue has but little hair, the hair 
being made into a knot at the top of the head and the 
circle placed over it. 

VENTILATING. 
The articles necessary for this purpose is the ventilat- 
ing net, ventilating needle and a wig block. Tack the 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 



85 




ventilating net to the top of the wig block and if you 
have the adjustable block holder, place it in a con- 
venient position to be worked upon. Steel points, made 
for this purpose, should be used in fastening the net to 
the block. You should not ventilate combings, always 
using cut hair. Take a small strand of hair betweeen 
the finger and thumb of the left hand, with ventilating 
needle in the right hand. Twist the strand at the end 
and form in a loop held in the loft hand. Begin at the 
end, always working lengthwise of the net. The ven- 
tilating needle is curved and by running it through the 
lace, it will protrude in the next hole from the en- 
trance. Kook the loop of the strand into the needle, 



86 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 

which has a hook at the end, drawing the hair through 
the net to the right and avoid letting it slip from 
the needle. Now, bring the needle under the strand 
of hair, holding between the thumb and finger of the 
left hand, drawing partly through, and pull through the 
loop now^ formed. Draw it tightly in the net. If ven- 
tilating for fine work use each hole in the net, but 
ordinarily you would use every second one. In ventilat- 
ing pompadours, it is customary to ventilate about 
three rows^ and the foundation should be from 10 to 12 
inches long. You proceed in the same manner to ven- 
tilate Toupees, front pieces and bangs. In making 
a part for the front piece, begin in the center, marked 
with straight line underneath the net to be guided by. 
Ventilate one side from you, tmn the work around and 
ventilate the other side in the same way, leaving one 
row of holes between, if you want a wide part, such as 
men's toupees, if a narrow^ part is desired, ventilate in 
all the holes. 

ARTIFICIAL CURLS. 
Curls are woven the same as the switch and mounted 
the same, except that there is but one strand and no 
stem. They can be made of short hair for curls around 
the face, or of long hair for the French curl at the 
neck. Montagues are made by fastening a strand of 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 87 

hair to a style of hairpin for this purpose. A strand 
of hair woven from four to six inches long and made 
of six-inch hair. 

PUFFS. 

Puffs are usually woven about nine inches long, made 
out of ten-inch hair. They can be mounted on millinery 
braid and sewed back and forth, making them about 
two to two and a half inches long. The millinery braid 
should extend about one and a half inches on each 
side. They should be done up by rolling on the fingers, 
the same as the puff described in Hairdressing, then 
fold the extended ends of the millinery braid on the 
inside to hold the puff in place. 

POMPADOURS. 

First prepare your foundation by taking a strip of 
ventilating net cut about an inch wide at each end and 
tapering to about one and a half inches in the center. 
It should be about twelve "nches long. Prepare it by 
turning the upper edge a*icr binding it with binding 
ribbon about one-eighth o* an inch, leaving about an 
inch of the ribbon at each snd to finish the end of the 
lace when the pompadour ^w completed. Tack the net 
on the wig block, as described in ventilating. Ventilate 
lengthwise, on the lower slue, about four rows, within 
an eight of an inch of the edge, using sixteen-inch natu- 
ral wavy hair. 



88 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 

After completing the ventilating, remove it from the 
block, fold the lower edge of the lace and hem in 
place. Now, lay the ventilated piece aside and weave 
two strands, as described in weaving, each the length 
of the ventilated piece, using the same hair and of the 
same length. Now, sew the first strand on back of the 
ventilated hair, opposite to the side on which the rib- 
bon has been sewed, and place the other strand just 
above the first and sew in place. Now, finish the ends 
by sewing the ribbon in place. 

There are also less expensive pompadours, made by 
weaving the hair in two or three sfrands of the proper 
length desired, and sewed to millinery braid, instead of 
the ventilated piece. In the center of the strand there 
should be sewed an additional piece of millinery braid 
about five inches long, sewed at each end, about three 
inches apart, so that it will stand up when it is put 
on the head. A strand of hair of the same length should 
also be fastened to this piece. Another style is made 
by weaving combings, if desired, in place of cut hair, 
in a strand of the proper length, weaving the top 
strand of wire in place of thread. The wire must be of 
very light and flexible material, and of the kind that 
will be durable. It should be woven coarse, and if it 
is desired heavy, weave an extra piece, using the 



HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 89 

three threads and not the wire, and sew the two to- 
gether. 

In cutting the threads from the loom, proceed the 
same as directions in weaving, but in cutting off the 
wire leave about an inch at each end, so that it can be 
bent in a loop. Cover with thread, the same as in 
making button holes. 

DRESSING POMPADOURS, FRONT PIECES, ETC. 

The method of water waving is used to dress bangs, 
pompadours, front pieces, etc. Only natural wavy hair 
can be dressed in this manner. 

Prepare article to be dressed by tacking with wig 
points on the table or work board, for this purpose. 
To half a pint of water, take three tablespoonfuls of 
Bandoline, or curling fluid. Dampen the hair thoroughly 
with this solution. Begin at the top, using a rubber 
comb with a handle. Take the hair in parts about 
three inches wide, each part being combed out well 
and begin on the left side. Comb down about an inch, 
draw to the right and crease it. Hold this in place 
with the back of another comb or with the left hand, 
pushing the first wave up ■ a little, then comb down 
about another inch, draw to the left and crease it, and 
continue until all is waved, keeping the hair quite wet 
during the process. The waves may be made large or 



90 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 

small as desired. For pompadours the waves are made 
large. Bangs and front pieces are waved smaller. The 
article should be left on the board twenty-four hours, or 
until thoroughly dried before removing. In case you 
are in a hurry for it, it can be ironed dry with a hot 
flatiron. 

Pompadours, as a rule, are not dressed throughout in 
this manner. The ends being thoroughly saturated with 
water to take out the kinky effect and combing the 
top into natural waves by dipping the comb into the 
water and Bandoline solution. 

Montagues, or short curls, for the front of the face, 
should be dressed by winding the end around the fore- 
finger of the left hand. Remove from the finger afteT' 
you have started the curl and finishing by rolling it 
around in a tight ring and pin with a common pin. 
These are usually dressed on a wig block, covered with 
paper. The same preparation being used as above de 
scribed, and after thoroughly drying, may be combed 
out or left rolled as preferred. 

BANDOLINE. 
Flaxseed, 1 oz. ' Water, 1 pint. 

Boil together 15 minutes strain and add: 
Rosewater, 1 quart. Gum tragacanth, 1 oz. 

Let stand 24 hours, strain, and add any scent desired. 



MANICURERS' MANUAL, HI 



MANICURING. 



Manicuring- is the art of treating^ the fing-er nails 
and cuticle. It has formerly been considered a part 
of the doctor's profession, but recently has been 
taken up by masseuse and hairdressers and is rapidly 
becoming more popular. The demand for this work 
can better be illustrated by explaining the fact that 
very few hairdressers now-a-days find ready employ- 
ment without being able to do manicuring-. The 
prices for this work are much better than most any- 
thing else in the line of trades and a manicurer finds 
employment at easier work, shorter hours and better 
salary than most any work that a man or woman can 
engage in. 

The work consists of trimming and shaping the 
nails, trimming the cuticle, and when necessary per- 
forming slight operations in shaping the nail or do- 
ing away with hang nails, also removing- stains and 
polishing. 

SEIvEiCTION AND CARE OF TOOLS. 

A complete outfit of tools for this work consists of 
a file, scissors, cuticle knife, buffer, polisher, orange 
sticks and emery boards 



92 MANICURERS' MANUAL 

FllvIiS. 

In selecting tools, you should have two files, one 
of coarse and the other of fine grain. The kind most 
used is a thin slim file, one that is easy to handle 
and can be got under the edge of the nail nicely. 
Select only those of the best grade; the thinner ones 



are of the best quality but are much easier broken. 
Great care must be used in handling these tools, 
being careful not to drop them or use them for any 
other work except filing the nails. 

SHEARS. 

In selecting scissors, there is but one style in the 
regular manicuring shear, but they are of dififerent 
grades. Nothing but a full steel shear is desirable, 
and ayoid gettirg those with fancy handles as they 
are usually made Tor private use instead of practical 
work at the business. 




The regular manicuring shear has curved blades, 
and no other shear will answer the purpose. 



MANICURERS' MANUAL. 93 

The cuticle knife is one with a very short blade, 
used for loosening- the cuticle, taking" off hang- nails 
and cleaning underneath the nail. Select the ones 



that are the thinnest and most pointed to enable you 
to get under the nail without loosening the flesh. 

The buffer is used for rubbing the nail after the 
powder is applied. It is for the purpose of putting the 
nail in proper condition to be polished. Do not try 
to use the small ones ordinarily used in private use. 
Select one that is soft and pliable and one about four 
inches long. 

The polisher is similar to the buffer except that it is 
longer and curved more giving a finer polish to the 
nail. In selecting look to those that are soft and 
thick. 

Orange sticks are used for loosening the cuticle, 
applying the bleach and cleaning under the nail. They 
are made of orange wood and do not soak soft and 
swell as any other wood does when kept in water. 
There is only one grade and size. 

The emery boards are used for smoothing the edge 
of the nail after the file has been used. The same as 
the orange sticks they are all the same grade and 
size, each one having a coarse and fine side, the 
coarse side to be used first and the fine last. After 



94 MANICURERS' MANUAL,. 

the file has been used, rough edges always appear on 
the nail, and the emery board is the only thing that 
will smooth it properly. 

Proper tools used in professional work can only 
be secured at the wholesale houses. Do not select 
the manicuring outfits that are on sale at stationery 
stores and only get those of good, quality. Any 
wholesale hair goods store will handle them. 

Manicure on a table the proper height to be con- 
venient for you to work upon sitting down. Table 
should be narrow so that the customer may sit close 
to the operator. A finger bowl and nail brush are ne- 
cessary, and usually small cushions are used for the 
customers to rest their arms upon. 

THE FIRST WORK. 

Seat your customer opposite you at the table begin- 
ning with the thumb of the left hand. If the nail is 
very long it is better to use a small pair of shears (not 
the manicuring shears) to trim it to a convenient 
length to be filed in proper shape. Hold the file in 
the right hand between the fingers and thumb, as 
shown in the illustration. Begin at one side and 
file the nail from one end to the other. As the file 
will only cut one way, it is not necessary to file back 
and forth. Always draw the file in the direction that 
it cuts, and from the side of the nail to the center. 




o 

be 

c 



Emery Board. 




Polisher. 




Buffer. 



96 



MANICURERS' MANUAL 



When one side is filed sufficiently begin on the oppo- 
site and draw the file toward the center of the nail, 
as in filing: backwards it gfiyes the fing-er an unpleas- 
ant sensation. Always consult your customer as to 
the shape they prefer their nails; often you are 




FILING. 

requested to file them pointed, while other times 

rounding them to a graceful curve. 
After the fingers and thumb of one hand haye 

been filed place them in the finger bowl with warm 
oap water, allowing them to soak until the right 
land has been filed. After completing the filing of 

the right hand take the left hand from the bowl of 

water, wipe it thoroughly and prepare for trimming- 

the cuticle, and put the right hand in the bowl ol 

water. 



MANICURERS' MANUAL. 



97 



Take the orange stick in the rig^ht hand, dip it in 
the bottle of Ongaline — which is for the purpose of 
bleaching- the nail and removing stains. Hold the 
left as shown in illustration, loosen the cuticle by 




USING ORANGE STICK. 

pushing it back with the end of the orange stick and 
gently working the stick underneath, leaving the cut- 
icle free from the nail. Caution should be displayed 
in this work not to hurt the customer or mar the 



98 



MANICURERS' MANUAL. 



surface of the nail. After the cuticle has been thor- 
cug-hly loosened, remove all the black stains from 
underneath the nail by applying- bleach with the 
orange stick. 

When hang- nails appear loosen them as much as 
possible with the cuticle knife, and cut them out as 




TRIMMING CUTICI^E. 

close to the roots as possible with the shears. If 
thoroug-hly loosened they will not appear again, but 
if only partly trimmed off they continue to grow, and 
are annoying. When rough edges appear above 
the cuticle they should be trimmed close with the 



MANICURERS' MANUAL. 99 

shears; apply vaseline, or some substance that will 
soften and avoid further breaking- of the skin. 

Next take your Manicuring- shears in the thumb 
and second fing-er of the right hand and trim the 
loose cuticle, beginning at one side and work around 
the nail, being careful not to trim in far enough to 
make the cuticle bleed, also hold the shears in such 
a position so as to trim underneath and not at the 
outer edge of the cuticle. Begin at the right side 
and work clear around, holding the shears in the 
same position. Do not try to trim one side and then 
change yoiir shears and trim the other; this mistake 
is often made. If the top of the cuticle is trimmed 
and not the under part it will allow hang- nail to 
appear in a short time. This must be avoided. 

After the cuticle has been trimmed on the four fin- 
gers and thumb, then apply the rosaline by rubbing 
a small portion on the nail with the flng-er, then dip 
the buffer in the powder and polish the nail by 
rubbing back and forth over the nail until it has a 
smooth, g-lossy surface. The rosaline is to give it the 
proper tint and assist in polishing, and the powder 
is to dry and enamel the nail. In polishing-, be care- 
ful not to irritate or heat the nail, as the friction of 
the polisher soon warms or burns, making it very 
disagreeable for the customer. 

Now, take the rig-ht hand from the bowl, wipe it 



100 MANICURERS' MANVAl, 

dry and clean, loosen the cuticle and polish the same 
as the left. 

After both hands have been polished wash the 
nails of the left hand by cleaning- them thoroughly 
with the nail brush to remove all powder and rosa- 
line from the nail then rinse the hands in clean, 
warm water and wipe dry. After both hands have 
been treated in the same way, use the cuticle knife 
to remove stains that cannot be taken out with the 
bleach and orange stick underneath the nail. Treat 
both hands this way a"-^. smooth the edg-e of the 
nail with the emery board, using" it the same as the 
file. In case a high polish is required, use what is 
called "Beau Brummel" by applying it with the brush, 
being careful not to allow it to touch the cuticle. 
After applying- it to all the nails use the polisher 
and rub gently, the same as with the buffer. In case 
the high polish is not requested, finish the nail by 
using the dry polisher, rubbing gently until a bril- 
liant, smooth surface appears. 

In case the blood has been drawn by using the 
cuticle knife or shears, apply tincture of iron or 
Peroxide of Hydrogen to stop the blood and act as 
a disinfectant. 

Great care must be taken in keeping the tools 
well sterilized for in u«>ing them where a customer's 



MANICURER'S MANUAL. 



101 



nails would be diseased, they would convey the dis- 
ease to another customer very easily. Sterilize by 
dipping- them in a fifty per cent solution of carbolic 
acid. 




The material used in manicuring- can be had or 
any toilet supply house or drug store. They consis^ 



102 



MANICURERS' MANUAL. 



of Ongaline, a liquid, Nail powder, and Rosaline, in 
the form of a paste and Beau Brummel, a liquid put 
up in packag-e with brush for applying-. Be very cau* 




tious in keeping- the liquids well corked both while 
using- and after completing as they evaporate or lose 
their strength and scent. 
Be very careful not to put the orang-e stick in the 




bleach after cleaning- the nail until well wiped off 
as the material would soon be spoiled if dirt was al- 



MANICURERS' MANUAL. 

lowed to drop in it. Be very careful not to allow the 
Ongaline to touch or drop on the clothes, as it wilj 
take out the color the same as lemon juice. 
PRICES FOR MANICURING. 

The prices for manicuring- men and women are usu- 
ally different. They rangre all the way from 25 cents 
to $1.00; usually establishments that charg-e $1.00 
for men charg-e 50 cents for ladies. I/adies' nails 
are usually easier manicured than men's. The aver- 
ag-e price for the work, however, is 50 cents, and it 
requires from fifteen minutes to half an hour, 

NAIL TINT. 

Oil of Lentise Yz oz. 

Salt Yz^r. 

Resin 1 scrup. 

Alum 1 scrup. 

Wax 1 scrup. 

NAIIy POWDE^R. 

Oxide tin, very fine 4 lbs. 

Carmine X 1^^. 

Oil of Berg-amot 150 g-rs. 

Oil of L<a vender 150 gr» 

FINGER NAIIy BLEACH. 

In case Ongaline cannot be secured you may use 
lemon juice or Peroxide of Hydrogen, the only 
trouble being that lemon juice soon spoils, where 
Ongaline can be kept always if well corked. 



J.l>* MASSAGE MANUAL. 



INSTRUCTIONS IN FACIAL 
MASSAGE. 



In this, the Twentieth Century, beauty is considered a 
God Given Gift and its preservation a solemn duty. 
The day for secrecy has gone by and men and women 
aliice now call as regularly on their Massuer as upon 
their Manicurist and with as little thought of secrecy. 
Age should be a matter of looks not of years, and 
everyone may remain youiig if they are willing to de- 
vote the time and attention necessary for good results. 
If old age has been creeping on apace and left unlovely 
tell-tale lines as a reminder, proper massage will rem- 
edy the evil and beauty be restored. That facial mas- 
sage has become a necessity is recognized by the care- 
fully groomed man of today as \\^ell as by my lady. 
Massage will not alone do everything, but a sensible 
diet, air, sunshine and scrupulous cleanliness combined 
with a reliable skin food and correct massage will do 
wonders. 

As the first requisite for a good complexion is thor- 
cuo-h cleanliness, we recommend the Automatic Mas- 
sage, or Hydro-Vacu, as being the best agent to bring 



MASSAGE MANUAi 



105 



about the desired result, the combined suctions and 
pressure opening up and cleansing the pores automat- 
ically. Unless there are deep lines the use of the 
Automatic Massage will be all that is found necessary, 
as it thoroughly exercises all the muscles in the face, 




AUTOMATIC OR HYDRO-VACU. 

but if the unwelcome lines are there, they must be 
worked out with tissue food by the hand manipulation. 
Blackheads disappear as if by magic by this treatment. 
First. — Make the patient perfectly comfortable. If 
a barber chair cannot be procured, use a large easy 



106 MASSAGE MANUAL. 

chair that can be tilted back, thus throwing the head 
up, making it comfortable for both patient and oper- 
ator. Pin the hair back closely, remove the collar, 
tuck towel in to protect the clothing and then cover 
the patient with the large apron, same as used by bar- 
bers and hairdressers. Ask the patient to relax the 
muscles and quietly rest. Rub in thoroughly the 
Cream, always using a circular motion and working 
upward and outward. Leave the Cream, which is a 
bleach, on the face while fixing the Automatic Massage 
Bag ready for use. If the face is inclined to be oily 
or black heads are troublesome, fill bag with quite 
hot water. If not, use lukewarm water in which a tea- 
spoonful of powdered boracic acid has been dissolved. 
Hang the bag about six feet from the floor and place the 
outlet tube in pail with sufficient water in it to cover end 
of tube. Wipe the face with a small towel or napkin, 
removing all cream. Now place the Depurater on the 
face, open the clasp and move slowly upward on the 
mouth line (the line running from outside of nose to 
the corner of the mouth) to the nose, across the cheek, 
up to the temple and down across the little lines which 
form under the eyes. Move the automatic massage 
slowly across these fine lines and work in a circle 
around the cheek bone, avoiding the lines at the cor- 
ner of the eye. Work on the temples and across the 



MASSAGE MANUAL. 107 

forehead m circles, always remembering to move slow- 
ly. After finishing one side of the face, work across 
the chin and do the other side in the same manner. If 
plump cheeks are wished for, work in circles where 
plumpness is desired. If the face is a young one with 
no heavy deep-set lines all that is now necessary is to 
rub in the Tissue Food, thoroughly cleanse and follow 
with another Automatic Massage Treatment using cold 
water in place of warm as before described. The cold 
water hardens the muscles and closes the pores. If an 
astringent is desired, use a small piece of alum in the 
cold water. An astringent is desirable where the pores 
are coarse. After using the cold water, wipe away all 
traces of cream, powder and your patient will leave 
refreshed in body and mind. If tell-tale lines of age 
or trouble are there, hand massage must follow the 
use of the Auto Massage and w^arm water. In mas- 
saging keep the fingers moist with the Tissue Food, and 
use only the balls of the finger tips. Always massage 
lightly except when wishing to reduce flesh, as in case 
of a double chin to be removed. Repeat each move- 
ment from twenty-five to fifty times, according to the 
necessity of the case. 

F-i'st Movement. — Place the finger tips, both hands, 
under the chin and move upward to the ears with a 
light, gentle, firm stroke, finishing the stroke either be- 



108 



MASSAGE MANUAL. 




THIRD MOVEMENT. 



MASSAGE MANUAL. ^09 

hind the ears or ending with a circular movement under 
the ear. 

Second Movement. — Place the finger tips on the lines 
and with light even strokes work up, terminating each 
stroke in the center of the cheek. 

Third Movement. — Place the finger tips in the center 
of the forehead and work lightly, smoothing the lines 
outward to the hair at the temples. 

Fourth Movement. — Beginning at the inner corner of 
the eye on the upper lid^ move across to the outer cor- 
ner in a curved line, using the ball of the second finger, 
and being very careful not to press heavily on the eye 
ball. For the little lines which form at the inner cor- 
ner of the eye under the lower lid, use a short stroke 
beginning at the nose and enamg in about the middle 
of the lower lid. 

Fifth Movement. — To preserve the cupid's bow, place 
the first finger in the center of the upper lip and with 
the thumb and second finger work toward the center. 
The stroke should be a very short one or the shape of 
the lip will be destroyed. The lower lip should be 
treated in the same manner. 



110 



MASSAGE MANUAL. 




FIFTH MOVEMENT. 



Sixth Movement. — In massaging the throat, use the 
rotary movement and massage much heavier than the 
face. Use skin food plentifully and give particular 
attention to the tell-tale lines of age or stiff linen col- 
lars, under the ears. 



MASSAGE MANUAL. 



Ill 




SIXTH MOVEMENT. 



ANOTHER METHOD OF MANIPULATION. 

First Movement. — Fingers under chin — thumbs at 
center of forehead — slide thumbs down to chin, turn 
hand with fingers on chin back to ears. 

2. Fingers under chin, thumbs at each side of nose, 
slide thumbs down and out, turn fingers on chin back 
to ears. 

Forehead. — 1. Fingers together at side of forehead, 
slide forward with fingers of other hand moving up 
and down; reverse. 

2. Fingers together, move both hands up and down 
alternately. 



112 MASSAGE MANUAL. 

3. Fingers on each side of face, move thumbs circular 
on forehead. 

4. With middle fingers rub alternately upward be- 
tween eyebrows. 

5. Fingers together, rub from between eyebrows up- 
ward and around to temples. 

Eyes. — '1. Fingers on chin, thumbs together in mid- 
dle of forehead, circle around the eyes and over the 
eyebrows. 

2. Fingers together, draw over the lids, spreading at 
the corners of eyes. 

3. With the thumb and middle finger together at 
temple, slide apart and hold — give circular with fore 
finger of right hand. 

4. With middle finger circle over the eyelids. 

5. Fingers together, draw over the eyelids, outward. 
With fingers on chin, circle thumbs on nose and around 

chin. 

Pat face with hands alternately upward. 

Palms of hands, circle hollows of cheeks. 

Pinch cheeks and in front of ears with thumb and 
closed fore finger, upward. 

Rub chin upward. 

Double chin, rub down and low. 

Circle neck and pat upward. 



MASSAGE MANUAL. 113 

For circles under eyes, rub cheeks up, with thumbs; 
fingers at side of face. 

Fii?gers on foreheaa, rub thumbs from front of ears 
up to the eyes — tight pressure. 

CLEANSING CREAM. 

Almond oil 4 oz. 

White wax 1 oz. 

Spermaceti i oz. 

Put all in double boiler, melt and stir with silver 
fork until it becomes creamy. Pour into jars and when 
cooled will be ready for use. 

SKIN FOOD. 

Almond oil 4 oz. 

WTiite wax 1 oz. 

Spermaceti 1 oz. 

Cocoanut oil 1 oz. 

Lanolin i oz. 

Put all ingredients into a double boiler and when 
thoroughly heated remove from fire and stir with silver 
fork until almost cold. Then add few drops of oil of 
rose. 

FACE POWDER. 

Bismuth oxychloride 1 oz. 

Chalk, prepared, finest 2 J oz. 

French chalk 5 oz. 



FACE POWDER. 

Carbonate of magnesium ^ oz. 

Pulverized tale 1 lb. 

Oil of rose 8 drops 

Oil of neroli 20 drops 

Extract of jasmin 14 oz. 

Extract of musk 1 dr. 

Mix thoroughly and pass through a 100-mesh bolting 
cloth. 

FACE BLEACH. 
Said to resemble Mme. Rupert's. 

Corrosive sublimate 8 gr. 

Tincture of benzoin 1 dr. 

Water q. s. to make 8 oz. 

Mix, apply night and morning. 

FOR PIMPLES. 

Camphor 10 gr. 

Acacia pul 20 gr. 

Sulphur precip 2 drachms 

Lime water -. 2 oz. 

Rose water 2 oz. 

Apply to the face upon retiring, let dry and brush off 
the powder. 

TO REMOVE BLACKHEADS. 

Ergotine 6 grammes 

Oxide zinc 14 grammes 

Vaseline 60 grammes 

Wash the face Avith warm water, dry with soft towel, 
apply ointment on retiring, allow it to remain on all 
night. 



MASSAGE MANUAL. 115 

ELECTRICAL FACIAL MASSAGE. 
In addition to the finger manipulation, electric mas- 
sage has become very popular. It is considered by 
many to be one of the best stimulants we have. No 
massage parlor is complete without a battery for this 
purpose. 

INSTRUMENTS REQUIRED. 
The instruments or attachments necessary with the 
battery are the conducting cords, metal handles, sponge 
disc, wrist electrode and massage roller. The faradic 
current is used entirely in the massage work. A two- 
cell battery is sufficient, and are what are known as 
dry cells. With ordinary use, cells should last from 
six to nine months, and when exhausted can be replaced 
for 50 cents per pair. The battery and attachments 
must be handled with care. A massage may be given 
by use of wrist electrode, which conveys a current 
through the operator, or with the sponge disc or roller. 

There are a great many manufacturers of batteries 
all working similar, but the one illustrated here is put 
up in a wooden case, containing all the attachments 
necessary and is portable, weighs less than 10 pounds. 
With a battery of this kind it is impossible to injure 
the patient or even administer a severe shock. 



IIG 



MASSAGE MANUAL. 




MASSAGE WITH WRIST ELECTRODE. 
Place the customer comfortably in a chair, with all 
muscles relaxed; prepare your battery by attaching 
the conducting cord to the post marked (P), and to 
the other end attach metal handle and place it in the 
customer's hand. There will be no benefit in massage 
unless the patient holds the metal handle. Attaching the 
other cord to the post marked (N) fasten the wrist 
band around the wrist of the right hand with a sponge 
disc (thoroughly wet) on the inside, so that the sponge 
will come in contact with wrist. This is accomplished 
by first unscrewing the metal that holds the sponge 



MASSAGE MANUAL. 



117 



from the part to which is attached the cord. Place 
the screw through the hole at one end of the wrist 
band, and bend the wa*ist band around, making a 
circle, and put the screw through the slot, at the other 
end of the band; then replace the part to which the 
cord is to he attached, which fastens the band in place 
to be put over the wrist. Slip the hand through the 




band and tighten enough so that the sponge will be 
held firmly on the wrist. Attach the cord as shown 
in illustration; then you are ready to proceed with the 
massage. Then turn the current on by moving the 
lever near the post marked (N) from right to left. 



118 MASSAGE MANUAL. 

The buzzing sound will denote the battery in action. 
Proceed with the movement same as described on pre- 
ceding pages, using either style that yourself or cus- 
tomer prefers. 

It should be remembered that the movement should 
be enacted as rapidly as possible, and in no case should 
the battery be in use over 20 minutes. If the cur- 
rent is not sufficiently strong to be felt by patient, the 
force may be increased by drawing out the shield at the 
right of the battery; draw out a short distance at a 
time, so that the shock will not be severe. Gradually 
increase the current to sufficient force. By this method 
the current passes through the operator to patient, 
connection being formed only as the fingers are placed 
on face of the patient. 

MASSAGE WITH THE ROLLER. 

In using the roller massage in place of wrist electrode, 
electricity is conveyed direct to the patient, and not 
through operator. The roller should only be used 
after completing the work of finger manipulation. De- 
tach wrist electrode from cord and attach in its place 
the roller with wooden handle. 

The patient must hold metal handle attached to sec- 
ond cord, as formerly described. The connection is 
formed as soon as the r<^ller is placed on the face, and 



MASSAGE MANUAL. 



liU 



the lever turned to the left, putting the battery in 
operation. The same buzzing sound denotes the bat- 
tery in working order. 

It is essential that the customer is laid back in a 
comfortable position, to get the best results of the 
treatment. In using the roller, on the face, roll up and 
never down, on the same principle that you massage 




the face. Underneath the eyes, the roller is to be 
carried lightly in a rounding movement. On the side 
of the face the lines can be crossed and a little more 
pressure used. Across the forehead smooth the lines as 
much as possible by drawing the skin lightly between 



120 MASSAGE MANUAL. 

the thumb and finger of left hand and follow with roller 
in right hand. 

The roller should never be used more than ten min- 
utes. The chamois covering the roller must be soaked 
in water in order to better convey the electricity. Tt 
will be well to use cologne water or some scented 
water, as it will be more pleasant for your patient. Be 
very careful to use a mild current, otherwise the roller 
will be an instrument of torturi"* rather than the pleas- 
ant sensation that is desired. \ k all work the positive 
pole is the one to be attached t > the roller, or sponge 
disc. 

MASSAGE WITH THE SPONGE DISC. 
The sponge disc should only be used after completing 
work of finger manipulation. Attach the sponge disc, 
well soaked in water, to the cord in place of the roller. 
The roller is to be unscrewed from the wood handle 
and sponge disc to take its place. Use the handle at- 
tached to the sponge disc, in the right hand, and go 
over the entire face in a rotary movement, always work- 
ing from lower part of the face up. The patient must 
hold the metal handle as before. It is best to use 
cold water, and if the face is too soft, a little alum, 
which helps close the pores and harden the skin, can 
be used. 



MASSAGE MANUAL. 



121 



As this is the last part of the work, before applying 
the powder cold water is preferable. It is better to 
have it mildly perfumed. 




ELECTRIC DEPERATOR. 

A new form of deperator (which is the cup used with 
automatic massage), has recentlj ^^een invented, and is 
so constructed that it allows the use of electric bat- 
tery while using automatic massage. The work should 
proceed as in the use of old style cup, except that the 
patient is to hold the metal handle attached to the 
battery. The other cord is attached to the deperator. 
This cord, of course, must be the same to which the 
wrist electrode, roller or sponge disc has been at- 
tached. This method affords a pleasant and soothing 
sensation, while using automatic massage. Electricity 
being fatal to germs, all danger of disease is averted 
and impurities of the skin entirely eradicated. 



122 MASSAGE MANUAL. 

FACE POWDER. 

In all methods of massageing it is best to finish your 
work with a small amount of pure vegetable powder, 
applied with a chamois. It will be found very essen- 
tial that you avoid the cheaper brands, that may do 
more injury to the skin than benefit. 

In case you prepare your own powder, it will be 
well to bolt it several times after being mixed, using a 
fine mesh bolting cloth. Powder should always be used 
before the freshly massaged face comes in contact with 
the outer air or sun. 

It is well to instruct your patient to remove all 
powder by thoroughly cleansing the face each night 
before retiring. The purest substance may often be- 
come harmful unless this rule is observed. 

Any of the instruments used in electric massage can 
be had at the Moler Supply House, 39 Peck Ct., Chi- 
cago, Ills. 

VIBRATORY FACIAL MASSAGE. 

Vibratory Facial Massage is given with an apparatus 
made for this purpose, and by its use as much work 
can be accomplished in five minutes as with the ordi- 
nary finger manipulation in one-half hour. The same 
precaution should be observed in following the musclee- 
and lines of the face, as with the finger manipula- 
tion, and care must be taken not to overdo the work. 



MASSAGE MANUAL. 123 

INSTRUMENTS NECESSARY. 

The articles necessary in addition to the vibrator are 
the apparatus for attaching to the electric plug, the 
motor, a hand-piece and straps, the rubber cup with 
handles, and hard rubber disc. The hand massage is 
recommended, but where the rubber cup is desired, it 
can be attached by a spring at the end of a wire arm. 
The motion given to the machine is a short vibration, 
the stroke of which can be lengthened or shortened by 
an adjustment for that purpose. The motor is hung 
on springs from an iron stand, and the entire apparatus 
on rollers, so it can easily be moved from one chair 
to another as it is needed. The machine must be kept 
well oiled, with all bolts and screws tightened. Too 
much care cannot be given this one particular point, 
as it would soon mean the entire destruction of the 
machine to neglect this. 

The straps and pads used for fastening the Rands to 
the apparatus can be detached and should be washed 
and sterilized frequently. The rubber cup should be 
sterilized after each operation. 

FIRST WORK. 
Prepare your customer the same as described 
in former instruction, by application of cream and, 
if necessary, the use of the automatic massage. 



124 



MASSAGE MANUAL. 



Start with having the fingers well anointed in the 
massage cream, after fastening the right hand to the 
machine. Take your position on one side of the chair 
with the apparatus on the other. Place your left hand 
on the customer's head in such a way as to steady it 
Start the machine in motion by turning on the elec- 




tricity, and proceed by allowing the fingers to gently 
tap the face. Practice will aid greatly in this work. 
When manipulation is being accomplished by rapid 
movement of the hand, it affords a very pleasant sensa- 
tion to the patient as well as the operator. It will 



MASSAGE MANUAL. 125 

be found that only one side of the face can be mas- 
saged without moving the apparatus or revolving the 
chair. The ordinary revolving barber chair is best for 
this purpose, as it is of convenient height and aids 
the operator to move the patient's face in a better posi- 
tion to be massaged. 

The instruments can be had at the Moler Supply 
House, 39 Peck Court, Chicago, 111. 



ELECTROLYSIS. 

Electrolysis is the science of removing superfluous 
hair, warts, moles and other blemishes by use of the 
electric needle. It is a science comparatively new to 
the general world, although one that is old in medical 
profession. Dr. Hayes, in his book of Facial Blemishes, 
as far back as 1889, has said about the method: 

"The employment of electricity for removal of super- 
fluous hair has stood the test for not less than 13 years 
by the profession, and the verdict is that it has come 
to stay. 

"I well remember the unfriendly criticism of some 
members of the medical profession who had less knowl- 
edge of the physics and therapeutics of electricity than 
some other branch of the medical science. That time 
of criticism is passed away, and the success of the 
operation depends upon the skill of the operator. So 



ELECTROLYSIS MANUAL. 127 

many have proven the competency of the process, that 
if a failure is recorded the operator and not the method 
is to be blamed." 

Closely related to superfluous hair are naevi and 
other facial blemishes, in the removal of which elec- 
tricity in some of its modifications serve as principal 
or an adjuvant. 

This work since the days of Dr. Hayes has been im- 
proved upon, although practically the same method is 
employed. In the use of the apparatus that we recom- 
mend for this purpose, no harm can come to the pa- 
tient unless a slight scar, and this can be avoided if 
the work is done properly. Only carelessness or an 
entire disregard for instructions on the following pages 
would be the only cause that would result in any 
harm. 

This work has been considered a dangerous opera- 
tion by many, but with reasonable caution it can be 
done with as good results by a beginner as by an 
expert. 

The principal requirement is a reasonably good sight 
and steady nerves; not over one-half hour at each sit- 
ting should be devoted to the work without a rest. 

In removing superfluous hair from the face one should 
try to remember that not m'bre than one should be re- 
moved in the same part of the face. This is to avoid 



128 ELECTROLYSIS MANUAL. 

inflammation by too many punctures of the needle in 
close proximity. In order to destroy the hair the needle 
must enter the follicle, which is the tissue around the 
hair, and penetrates down the sheath at the aide of 
the hair to the papilla or root of the hair. The object 
ia to destroy as little tissue as possible in destroying 
the hair. The amount of the tissue destroyed depends 
on the length of time the needle is left in the place. 

One great trouble in electrolysis is being able to 
follow the sheath to the papilla, or root, as there are 
usually sebaceous glands or sacks in which the needle 
will sometimes find its way in place of following the 
hair to the root. Another trouble in following the 
sheath is that the hair does not always grow from the 
papilla to the surface of the skin in straight lines. It 
sometimes leaves the skin slanted in a certain direction 
while the undergrowth is in another. 

In addition to the treatment of superfluous hair, the 
electric needle will be found most useful in remov- 
ing warts, and moles, leaving the surface perfectly 
smooth and without a scar, if the work is done prop- 
erly. This method is considered far superior to any 
other process in cases where no more than one-third 
of an inch in diameter is to be treated. 



ELECTROLYSIS MANUAL. 



120 




APPARATUS REQUIRED. 
The galvanic battery is used for this work and 
should consist of at least six cells. It is so arranged 
that any number of cells can be used, as the force 
of the current is required. A connecting plate is so 
arranged with figures that there is no danger of using 
too strong a current, when a milder one is desired. One 
connection, marked (X), and to this one is always at- 
tached the needle cord. 

The complete outfit, in addition to the battery, con- 
sists of two conducting cords, a needle holder, needles of 
assorted sizes, magnifying glass, tweezers, a sponge disc 
and one copy of Dr. Hayes' book on Facial Blemishes. 



130 ELECTROLYSIS MANUAL. 

To this outfit can be added a head light, if satisinc- 
tory daylight cannot be had. The needle holder is of 
hard rubber with steel lining, and so constructed that 
the blades grasp the needle and close on it, holding it in 
place by means of an inner screw. The conducting 
cords are composed of fine copper wire, covered with 
tape, and attached to each end is a metal which is to 
be inserted in the plate of the battery, and to the 
sponge disc, on which the patients place their hands 
while being operated upon. 

The sponge disc should always be dampened before 
beginning the operation. The magnifying glass is not 
always considered essential, but in most cases it will 
be needed. The forceps are for the purpose of re- 
moving the hair after the needle has done its work 
and should have blunt ends. 

The head light can only be used where electricity is 
accessible. Needles are of steel, platinum, and in some 
instances, gold and silver. The steel is preferred for 
removing superfluous hair, and is the needle with the 
bulbous end. A sharp needle is more apt to penetrate 
the sheath, but it is the one used in removing warts 
and moles. The disc may be made either of sponge or 
heavy felt, attached to a rubber back, in which the 
fastener for the cord is attached. The needle is only 
off'ective while the patient's hand rests upon the elec- 



ELECTROLYSIS MANUAL. 131 

trode. A reclining chair should be used for this 
work. 

FIRST WORK. 

First place your patient in a comfortable posi- 
tion and cover with a spread similar to the one 
used by hairdressers and massuers. This is to 
protect their garments while being operated upon. 
As stated previously, if good daylight is not affordable 
the artificial light must be so arranged that it will 
shine on every part of the face. When you have the 
battery in place, on a convenient table with the needles 
and discs connected, you are ready to work. Be care- 
ful that the hands are made antiseptic by washing them 
in a mild solution of formalin. This is very essential 
and it is also necessary to sterilize all instruments be- 
fore and after each operation. Place the electrode in 
the patient's lap, in an easy position to rest the hand 
upon; at the same time instruct the patient not to 
place the hand upon it until directed. Connect the cord 
of the negative electrode, or needle cord, to the number 
of cells that you wish to use, usually starting with no 
more than two or three. 

Take an easy position at the side, or partly in front 
of the patient, bathe the part of the face to be oper- 
ated upon with dioxygen by using a small piece of 
cotton saturated in the fluid. Tlirow the cotton away 



132 



ELECTROLYSIS MANUAL. 



after using. Now pick up the needle holder with the 
bulbous needle, holding it in the right hand, at the same 
time taking up the forceps between the second, third 
and fourth fingers and palm of the same hand, the needle 




holder being held by the first finger and thumb. The 
needle is now ready to be inserted at the side of the 
hair as it emerges from the side of the skin. Allow it 
to follow the hair until it strikes a slight ob- 
struction. This is supposed to be the papilla of the 
hair. 



ELECTROLYSIS MANUAL. 133 

Now instruct the patient to place the hands on the 
electrode. This forms a connection and starts the needle 
in its work of destroying the tissue. If the number of 
cells you are using are strong enough, oxygen, or a 
froth- like substance, will appear at the point where 
the needle is inserted, usually within five or ten seconds 
from time connection is made. If the oxygen does not 
make its appearance, the cells are not strong enough, 
and others must be added until this result is ob- 
tained. 

Now, instruct your patient to remove the hand from 
the electrode, remove the needle, and with the forceps 
try lightly to remove the hair. The needle can be held 
in the hand at the same time, or it can be held in 
the mouth while trying the hair. If the hair does not 
remove readily the needle should be again inserted. 
Instruct the subject to place the hands on the electrode 
again, and in another few seconds try the hair again. 
If the needle has followed the follicle to the papilla, it 
should be removed very readily, but if it does not after 
a second trial use force enough to remove the hair, in- 
sert the needle, following, as near as possible, the follicle 
or course of hair. Instruct the patient to lay the 
hand on the electrode again, and this time you mny 
be able to reach the papilla, where you have failed pre- 
viously, and by this insertion the root will be destroyed. 



134 ELECTROLYSIS MANUAL. 

Dr. Hayes, in his book of Facial Blemishes states: "If 
the amount of gas disengaged around the needle be 
great and the appearance of the tissue indicates that 
there has been such a destruction of tissue as may re- 
sult in a noticeable scar, or something approximating 
thereto, it will be wise on your part to desist from 
operating on the hair. I find, however, that should 
the hair be allowed to remain, it is quite liable to cause 
irritation to the sore which results. I therefore re- 
move the hair, knowing that it will return again, and 
that in my second attempt my success may be demon- 
strated by the ease with which the hair is removed." 
It will be better to insert the needle before directing 
your patient to lay the hand on the electrode, also be- 
fore the needle is to be removed. It must be remem- 
berd that you should not allow the needle to remain 
long enough to destroy sufficient tissue to form a scar. 
In case the sheath of the hair and the outer skin are 
so firm that it is difficult to follow the follicle you will 
sometimes find it necessary to instruct the patient to 
lay the hand on the electrode before the needle is in- 
serted and to pass the needle around the hair to 
cauterize the cuticle which will allow the hair to be 
removed, bringing with it the root sheath. The needle 
can then be inserted in place of the hair to destroy tiie 
papiUa. The sheath of the hair is not likely to be 



ELECTROLYSIS MANUAL. 135 

disturbed in pulling the hair from its place, or the 
sheath may draw part way out and block the entrance. 
This would make it impossible to reach the papilla. 

In cases where the hair protrudes in one direction 
and the root in the other, you will sometimes be able 
to straighten the course by stretching the cuticle in one 
direction or another. When in doubt of having reach'^d 
the root of the hair, it is well to allow the needle to 
remain as long as it seems safe to do so without caus- 
ing a scar. 

If you have not destroyed the hair you will doubtless 
aid in doing so the next operation. Hair growing in this 
manner is called lango hair. It is not usually as deep 
in the roots as in ordinary cases. 

In connecting the battery the positive plate would 
destroy the hair as effectively, but there is more dan- 
ger of leaving a scar. The galvanic current is the only 
one that can be used effectively in doing the work. 

In first beginning the practice of electrolysis it would 
be well to begin by operating upon the arm or some 
part of the body not as sensitive as the face, and where 
a slight scar would not be a disfigurement. There are 
many little points that will be gathered from this prac- 
tice that cannot be illustrated otherwise. 

Again quoting Dr. Hayes: "WTien the negative elec- 
trode is used for electrolysis, as in the cases pre- 



136 ELECTROLYSIS MANUAL. 

viously stated, we have the action of potassium and 
sodium hydrates, which destroy the tissue without coag- 
ulating the albumen. The activity of the caustic 
alkalies not being interfered with by an insoluble bar- 
rier of coagulated albumen, causes the tissues to be 
destroyed to a much greater distance from the needle 
than as though the positive pole had been used. In 
addition to the liberation of the caustic alkalies, we 
have also the appearance of hydrogen, which, on ac- 
count of its high diffusibility, passes between the inter- 
stices of the cells and causes a mechanical disintegra- 
tion of tissue. A certain portion of the hydrogen be- 
coming mingled with the albuminous fluids of the tis- 
sues forms a froth which appears around the needle and 
serves as an index to the strength of the current and 
the rapidity of the destruction of tissue." 

After completing your work, which should not be 
over one-half hour session, treat the part operated on 
with zinc ointment. A perfectly pure massage cream 
could be used, but zinc ointment is preferable. In- 
struct your patient to allow the ointment to remain 
on the face as long as possible before leaving the room, 
and to use no soap or water. Until the trace of the 
needle has disappeared renew the zinc ointment treat- 
ment twice a day by rubbing it well into the skin. 
Other portions of the face can be washed as usual. 



ELECTROLYSIS MANUAL. 137 

Great care must be taken that no substances are 
allowed to come in contact with the portion of the face 
that is operated on, that will in any way irritate or 
poison it, as it will be more likely to end in a soar. 

If the pain caused your patient is too great using 
the number of cells required to destroy quickly, lessen 
the number, but in this case the needle must be left 
in place longer, in order to do its work. Usually the 
pain to the patient, on the upper lip, is greater than 
other parts of the face, but in many instances the fluid 
from the needle is to be inserted in the follicle before 
the connection is made. It is best to stretch the skin 
with the finger and thumb of the left hand, before in- 
serting the needle. This will help in locating it and 
lessen the pain. It is best not to remove hairs from 
the face where there is an eruption. As a rule, from 
60 to 100 hairs can be removed per hour, by skilled 
operators. The length of time for each hair, how- 
ever, varies according to the condition. Hairs on the 
upper lip and cheeks can be destroyed in less time than 
any other place. 

REMOVING WARTS AND MOLES. 

In the removal of warts and moles, the same galvanic 
current is used, but usually with more cells. As a rule, 
six cells will be necessary for this work, and a sharp- 



138 ELECTROLYSIS MANUAL. 

pointed needle to fake the place of the bulbous one. 
Needles for this work are often made of platinum and 
sometimes of gold. It is generally considered that they 
lessen the inflammation. 

There are a great many varieties of moles and 
warts, but are all treated nearly the same. Prepare 
your patient the same as for treating superfluous hair, 
using the same precautions in cleaning the hands, in- 
struments and part to be operated upon. It is essen- 
tial in this work that everything be surgically clean. If 
the mole is covered with hair it is necessary to remove 
it first in the same manner that has been directed. 
If in removing the hair the part around the mole be 
inflamed or reddened, it is not best to proceed imme- 
diately to remove the mole. In some cases it will re- 
quire two or three sittings to remove the hair and 
prepare the mole to be operated upon. 

After using instruments, it is very essential that you 
instruct your patient to treat by applying zinc oint- 
ment, and in several cases it is better not to try to re- 
move the mole until the effects of the needle are en- 
tirely eradicated. 

In removing the mole start at the point about level 
with the surface and direct the needle straight through, 
coming out on the oposite side about the same point. 
Direct your patient to place hand on electrode, and if 



ELECTROLYSIS MANUAL. 139 

the current is strong enough, it will be denoted by the 
changed appearance of the mole and by the bubbles that 
will appear at the side of the needle. Hold in place 
thirty seconds. Instruct the patient to remove the hand 
from the electrode and remove the needle. If the cuticle 
surrounding the mole has not become much inflamed, 
proceed again as before, starting at another point, often- 
times crossing the first puncture. It should not be 
necessary to work more than five minutes on one mole. 
It is well to commence with fewer cells and gradually 
increase until you have a suflQcient number, rather than 
to try to proceed rapidly. 

In many cases the moles are not elevated, but are 
level with the surface of surrounding cuticle. Some 
are covered with hair and others are not. In port wine 
marks, which are broken veins, it is often necessary to 
use a network of needles so fixed that they are the 
same length and are equal distances apart. They are 
often joined in sets, as many as twelve on a disc. 
These can only be used on level surfaces. In other in- 
stances, the single needles should be used. The usual 
price for an operation is $1.00 for a half-hour sitting. 

Among a few dont's that Dr. Hayes suggests for 
Electrolysis, are the following: 

"Don't use a sharp-pointed needle. 

"Don't attach the needle to the positive pole. 



140 ELECTROLYSIS MANUAL. 

"Don't use too strong a current. 

"Don't continue the current long enough to leave a 
visible scar. 

"Don't remove two hairs in close proximity to each 
other. 

"Don't attempt to remove a hair near an acne pustule. 
"IN REMOVING OTHER FACIAL BLEMISHES BY 
MEANS OF ELECTROLYSIS: 

"Don't use a blunt-pointed needle. 

"Don't use too weak a current. 

"Don't attempt the removal by electrolysis of a rapid- 
growing vascular naevus of more than one-third inch 
in diameter. 

"Don't attempt the cure of acne or rosacea by elec- 
tricity only. 

"IN GENERAL. 

"Don't attempt to use a faradic current for electroly- 
sis. 

"Don't use a steel needle with a positive pole. 

"Don't have the cords too short. 

"Don't make and break the current in metallic cir- 
cuit. 

"Don't have poor connections between the electrodes 
and the battery. 

"Don't allow the patient to remove the eschar. 

"Don't attempt electrolysis in young children." 



CHIROPODY. 

Chiropody treats on the ailments of the feet. Actual 
practice, such as our college provides for its students, 
is, of course, the best experience. We do not pretend to 
go deep into the study of anatomy, but rather to give 
a practical course that will enable one to treat the 
different diseases in a practical manner. For the sake 
of enabling the students to understand the cause of 
the disease they are treating, we will give a brief de- 
scription of the anatomy of the foot. 

It will be seen by the following pages that the most 
frequent causes of the trouble of this kind are in 
neglect. These ailments are easily combated, and with 
the proper advice to the patient, permanently cured. 
The original cause of the corn will also cause its return, 
no matter how effective the cure may be during the 
treatment. It is, therefore, essential that you instruct 
your patient carefully regarding the care of the feet, 
both in relation to wearing apparel and other causes. 
Well-fitted shoes is one of the most essential thincrs. 
Neither too tight or too loose, a well-supported instep 
and not too high heels. The sole should be reason- 
ably heavy, but to a certain extent pliable. Patent 
leather is not to be recommended, as it prevents the 
circulation that is allowed with the ordinary leather. 
Try to guard your patient against wearing hosiery with 



142 CHIKOPODY MA:NUAL. 

coloring matter that is poisonous. The fit is as essen- 
tial as the shoe. Cotton hosiery is the best for all 
occasions. 

A chiropody parlor should be furnished with booths 
or small apartments, well lighted. An easy chair 
should be provided for the subject, with a low stool for 
the operator, a foot tub with apparatus for hot and 
cold water convenient. The greatest danger is in the 
line of blood poison, and great care should be taken in 
sterilizing instruments before and after each operation, 
as well as keeping everything surgically clean in con- 
nection with the establishment. 

Dr. Alexander Clark, in his book of Pedic Surgery, 
gives the following Latin medical terms and definitions. 
While the study of these is not absolutely necessary 
in the practice of Chiropody, they are well to under- 
stand : 

Abductor pollicis pedis — A muscle of the great toe. 

Abductor minimi digite pedis — A muscle of the little 
toe. 

Aqua — Water. 

Articulation — The connection of the bones with each 
other. 

Astragalus — A short bone of the tarsus, ankle bone. 
Calcisos — The largest bone of the heel. 



CHIROPODY MANUAL. 143 

Cuneiformos — A name applied to three bones of the 
tarsus. 

Cuboidesos — A tarsal bone of the foot. 

Clavus durus — Hard corn. 

Clavus mollis — Soft corn. 

Digiti — Toes. 

Digitalis pedis — A toe. 

Dorsum pedis — Back of the foot. 

Douche — In therapeutics, a dash of water. 

Extensor — To extend. 

Fibio tarsal articulation — The articulation of the foot 
with the leg. 

Flexor — To bend. 

Flexor brevis digitorum pedis perforatus — A flexor 
muscle of the toe situated at the middle part of the 
foot. 

Flexor longus pollicis pedis — A flexor muscle of the 
great toe, situated at the posterior part of the leg. 

Flexor brevis pollicis pedis — A flexor muscle of the 
great toe, situated at the anterior and the middle part 
of the sole of the foot. 

Hydropathy — Water cure. 

Gastrocnemius — Largest muscle on posterior of leg. 

Integument — To cover or envelope. 

Interossei pedis — The small muscles situated between 

the metatarsal bones. 



I 



144 CHIROPODY MANUAL. 

Invclucrum — The sould bone or case that encloses the 
desid bone. 

Lochia — cleansing. 

Metatarsus — A term applied to the several bones of 
the foot. 

Metatarsal os — Consists of five small bones, one to 
each toe. 

Musculus — A muscle. 

Muscular fibre — The fleshy fibre which forms the 
body of the muscle. 

Muscular arteries — Arteries that distribute to the 
muscles. 

Muscular veins — Veins that bring back the blood car- 
ried to the muscles by the muscular arteries. 

Muscular motion — Motion caused by contraction of 
the muscles. 

Naviculare os — Two bones of the instep. 

Necrosis — A state of the bones where it is deprived 
of life, it is popularly known as fever sore. 

Onyxis — An ingrowing or inverted toe nail. 

Ostitis — Inflammation of the bone. 

Pernio — A chilblain. 

Pernio simplex — A chilblain in which the skin is 
unbroken. 

Pernio exulceratus — A chilblain accompanied with ul 
ceration. 



ClllROrODY MANUAL. 145 

Pediluvium — Foot bath. 

Phalanges — Toes. 

Plantar planaris — From planta the sole of the foot. 

Plantar arteries — Two arteries, an external and an 
internal, arising from the external of the posterior tibial. 

Plantar ligaments — The inferior ligaments of t he 
tarsus and metatarsus. 

Rete mucosum— A term applied to a supposed mucous 
substance between the cuticle and the true skin. 

Scaphoid— A bone situated in the fore part of the 
foot. 

Sesamoid — ^Bones of the great toe. 

Tarsal articulation — The union of the tarsal bones. 

Tarso extensor minor — The plantaris muaole. 

Tarso metatarsal minor — The plantaris muscle. 

Tarso metatarsal — In anatomy the articulations which 
connect the second row of bones of the tarsus and the 
metatarsal bones; also the ligaments, distinguished into 
dorsal and plantar, by which articulations are secured. 

Tarsophyma — An operation for the removal of the 
tarsus cartilage. 

Tibia — The large bone of the leg. 

Unguis — Nail. 

Vesicatorium — A blister. 



146 CHIROPODY MANUAL. 

BHIEF ANATOMY OF THE FOOT. 
The Bones. 

The tarsus (instep) is composed of seven bones. The 
metatarsal bones are five in number. They articulate 
with the tarsal bones at one extremity, and the pha- 
langes (toe bones) at the other range. The tarsal and 
metatarsal bones are so united as to give the foot an 
arched form. This gives elasticity to the step and the 
spring of the arch prevents injury. The phalanges of the 
foot is composed of fourteen bones. The small toes 
have three ranges of bones, while the large toe has but 
two. 

The tarsus (instep) is composed of the following 
bones: The astragalus os calcis, os naviculare, oa cu- 
boidea and the three cuneiform bones, called os cunei- 
form medium. Metatarsus consists of five small bones 
placed between the tarsus and the phalanges. 

The sesamoid bones are found at the articulation of 
th.e, great toe. Articulations are the parts where any 
two or more bones that are to play on each other come 
in contact. To give strength to the articulation fibrous 
bands, called ligaments, bind one bone to another. 
Sprains and dislocations are mainly caused by false 
steps or movements by which the articular ligaments 
are torn or violently stretched. Negligence and im- 
proper care for blows or sprains on the joints is liable 



CHIROPODY MANUAL. 147 

to endanger life. The joint may become inflamed, water 
will be liable to form in them and the bones thicken 
and the disease known as white swelling be the result. 
The seven bones of the tarsus are so arranged as to 
form the strongest support to the body and elastic 
arch. The most important of these bones is the as- 
tragalus. This bone, with the tibia and fibula, form the 
ankle joint; its semicircular head forms a complete pul- 
ley; it rolls under the articulating surface of the tibia 
and fibula, and the groove, from its boat -like shape, into 
which it enters, is called the scaphoid cavity. The at- 
tention of the reader is called to the articulation of the 
OS naviculare or scaphoid bone. 

The phalanges (the toes) consist of fourteen bones 
in each foot, viz.: Plantar muscle, the extensor tarsi 
minor, the plantaris. Plantar nerves: Two nerves, an 
external and internal, proceeding from the posterior 
tibial, the internal to the outer side of the fourth and 
fifth and to the muscles situated on the side of the foot. 

MUSCLES. 

The following are the names of the muscles that flex, 
or move, the ankles, feet and toes: Tibialis anticus, 
used to flex the foot and turn it obliquely inward; ex- 
tensor longus pollicis, used to extend the great toe; 
extensor longus digitorum, used to extend the toes; per- 
oneus tertius forms a part of the extensor longus and 



148 CHIROPODY MANUAL. 

goes to the little toe. The gastronemius, used to extend 
the foot; popliteus, to flex the leg; flexor longus digi- 
torum, used to extend the foot; Tibialis posticus, used 
to extend the foot; peronous longus, used to extend the 
foot and turn it outward; peroneus brevis, used to ex- 
tend the foot and turn it outward. The forenamed 
twelve muscles of the leg flex, or extend the foot or toes. 

The following are the names of twelve muscles of the 
foot — extend, draw or flex the toes and joints: The 
first two on the dorsum the last ten on the sole. The 
extensor brevis digitorum originates in outer part of the 
08 caleis, inserted and expands over the toes, and is 
used to extend the phalanges. Interossei dorsales occu- 
pies the interosseal spaces, used to extend the toes. 
Abductor poUicis has its origin on the os caleis and the 
annular lig is inserted in the first phalanx of great toe 
and is used to draw the great toe from the others. Mus- 
cular accessorius used to flex the toes. Lumbricalis, used 
to flex the first joint of the great toe. Abductor polli- 
cis used to bring the great toe toward the rest; flexor 
brevis versalis pedis, used to draw the toe together. 
Interossei plantaris occupy the interosseal spaces and 
adduct the toes. 

SELECTION AND CARE OF TOOLS. 

Good tools are as essential in this profession as any 
work we teach and it is advisable to use only the best. 



CHIROPODY MANUAL. 149 

Many chiropodists prefer using a great many knives 
of different varieties, but experience has taught us that 
it is better to use as small a variety as possible in order 
to become more familiar with each instrument. 

HONES. 

The best hones we have found for sharpening chirop- 
odist's instruments is the Cuban clay, a very convenient 
size is from 2 to 4 inches long and from 1 to 2 inches 
wide. 

Hones for flesh-cutting instruments must be of the 
coarser variety than those used by barbers, but not as 
coarse as those used to sharpen most edged tools, this 
making them difficult to select. 

NAH. NIPPEKS. 
The Nail Nipper should be strong and with a spiral 
spring. They are for cutting heavy nails and almost 
indispensable. 

CHISEL KNIFE. 



This is a very convenient instrument for fine work 
and should not be used on heavy callouses or nails. One 
end has a sharp cutting edge with the other blunt and 
rounded for work on soft corns. 



150 



CHIROPODY MANUAL. 



TWEEZERS. 
Tweezers are important in lifting small particles of 
cuticle as it is being removed, also for handling small 
bits of medicated cotton. 



SHEARS. 




The shears must be made of solid steel and of the beat 
grade, as they are very delicately constructed, and for 
the work required of them would be useless in t^o 
cheaper grades. 

SCAPULA. 

This is an instrument that must be selected with care. 
The metal should be of the highest grade of steel that 
will not be affected by acids. The handle should be of 
material that can be placed in boiling water without^ 
being affected. 



CHIROPODY MANUAL. 151 

OPERATING KNIFE. 

The most useful instrument is the operating knife, 
which can be used for nearly every purpose. 

The scapula is a longer blade, with single edge and 
is intended for stronger work or heavier callouses. It 
is also useful in scraping nails or splitting ingrown 
nails. The shears should be of strong, heavy construc- 
tion, very short and with bent blades, similar to the 
manicuring shear, except that it should be much 
stronger. They are intended for trimming the nails, 
cutting padding, chamois, etc. They are also used for 
trimming cuticle in pedicuring and removing particles 
of callouses and dead cuticle. 

Instruments can be sterilized by dipping in a mild 
solution of carbolic acid. Solution should be about 
10 per cent. In addition to this, they should be dipped 
in boiling water after a bad operation. They may also 
be passed quickly through a gas flame, but care should 
be taken that they are not left long enough to heat suf- 
ficiently to spoil the temper. 

The diseases of the feet that we will herein describe 
are hard corns, soft corns, bunions, ingrowing toe nails, 
callouses, excessive perspiration. 

HARD CORNS. 

First soak the feet from five to ten minutes in a foot 
tub of water as hot as bearable, which is intended to 
soften the corn and remove inflammation. Place your- 



152 



CHIROPODY MANUAL. 



self on the stool in front of your subject. Take the 
foot from the tub and wipe thoroughly. Hold the toe 
between the first finger and thumb of the left hand 
and the knife with the right hand, and remove thin 
layers of the callouses by cutting towards you and be- 
ginning in the center. Trim the flesh with the knife 



i( 




HARD CORNS. 



until it feels soft and pliable, being very cautious nSt 
to cut deep enough to draw blood. Leave the outer 



CHIROPODY MANUAL. 153 

surface smooth. When all callous has been removed, 
apply vaseline or mutton tallow prepared with a small 
preparation of sweet oil. Apply by rubbing well into 
the corn with a circular movement, or from the nail 
back. After all substance has been absorbed, you are 
ready for padding. Prepare your padding by first tak- 
ing a very thin piece of cotton, laid perfectly smooth 
over the afflicted part and held in place by a very little 
collodion at the edges. Prepare a chamois pad by cut- 
ting a small piece off of your chamois skin, just large 
enough to cover the corn and cotton. Cut it round 
and then fold double and cut a small piece out of the 
center. When unfolded it will be perfectly round and 
you should be careful not to get it too large or too 
small to fit the case. In some cases, two thicknesses 
will be necessary. This is to be held in place by a 
narrow adhesive strip fastened both above and below. 

SOFT CORNS. 

In this treatment^ soak the feet the same as with the 
hard corn and wipe as before. Soft corns always appear 
between the toes, and usually caused from moisture 
either from perspiration or not sufficiently drying be- 
tween the toes after bathing the feet. 

They come in the form of a blister and are covered 
with a white or yellow skin, which must be removed 
with the knife as shown in cut. Spread the toes apart 



(54 



GHIROPODY MANUAL. 




SOFT CORNS. 

with the finger and thumb and remove the top layer by 
working the knife under the cuticle and removing small 
pieces at a time, using the shears to detach the cuticle 
as it is loosened or in many cases, tweezers are neces- 
sary. Great care must be used not to cut too deep 
and draw the blood, as, in the former cases, here lies 
the danger of blood poison. Use Ointment No. 2, as ex- 



CHIROPODY MANUAL. 155 

plained in the following pages, which is principally 
composed of vaseline and oxide of zinc. A sufficient 
amount of this to soften the cuticle should be left be- 
tween the toes. Prepare a small piece of cotton to put 
between the toes by taking it between the finger and 
thumb and pulling it smooth and thin so that it will 
not roll into a hard lump and cause irritation. Treat- 
ment should be given once a week, at least, and in bad 
cases, every third day until relieved. 

BUNIONS. 

Bunions usually appear on the second joint of the 
big toe or at the base of the little toe, usually the 
former. Soak, the same as in the former case, and 
trim with the scapula, if callous appears. Remove all 
signs of such. Treat with a solution of equal portions 
of Iodine and Belladonna. Apply w'ith camel's hair 
brush. If any inflammation, apply a softening solution, 
the same as used for soft corns. 

Prepare your padding the same as in the ease of hard 
corns, oftentimes using two and fcliree thicknesses of 
chamois in bad cases. Prepare cotton in the same form 
as chamois as shown in cut. 

The usual cause of bunions is wearing shoes that 
are too narrow and this cause must be removed before 
you can effect a cure. It may be caused also by wear- 
ing shoes that are too short and the constant jar ot 



156 



CHIROPODY MANUAL. 




PADDING. 



walking injures the joint. In severe cases, where pus 
appears, it should be poulticed with flaxseed or bread 
and milk until all inflammation is removed. After 
being poulticed a sufficient length of time to bring 
the pus to the surface, usually a few days, remove 
the poultice and extract the pus>, Treat with your 



CHIROPODY MANUAL. 



157 



antiseptic solution and pad as described. The idea of 
padding around the bunion is to remove the pressure of 
the shoe at the immediate point afflicted. 

INGROWN TOE NAILS. 

This affliction is usually limited to the great toe, al- 
though sometimes it affects the small ones. The first 
treatment is to raise the side or corner that is causing 




INGROWN TOE NAILS. 



158 CHIROPODY MANUAL. 

the irritation by lifting it as much as possible with 
the orange stick, the same as used for manicuring pur- 
poses, and gently work cotton under the edge. Work 
as much cotton underneath the nail as it will allow 
without causing pain and thoroughly antisept the af- 
flicted part by bathing well with a mild solution of car- 
bolic acid or peroxide. Remove the cotton and put in 
fresh, dry cotton in its place. Never trim the edge of 
the nail that is growing in, as it causes it to continue 
to grow in that direction. Cut your nail straight 
across the end and notch V shape in the center as 
deep as the cuticle will allow; also scrape the top of 
the nail from the notch to the base of the nail, allow- 
ing the nail to contract or grow to the center in place 
of the side. In severe cases, it may be found neces- 
sary to split the nail near the afflicted edge as far 
back as the inflammation appears. In case pus appears, 
poultice the same as the bunion and remove all in- 
flammation before treating further. In case of pus 
always treat well with the antiseptics before trimming 
and treating the nail. 

CALLOUSES. 

Callouses, except as spoken of in connection with 
corns and bunions, appear on the bottom of the foot and 
form a thick fibre that must be removed before at- 
tempting to effect a cure. Remove the callous with the 



CHIROPODY MANUAL. 



150 



scapula a little at a time, being careful not to cut tuo 
deep. Remove all signs of dead cuticle and trim until 
the pink surface appears. The blade of the knife 
should be held as flat as possible to avoid cutting too 
deep. 




CALLOUSES. 



Use antiseptic and softening salve, the same as used 
for hard corns and pad the same as for bunions. Great 
care must be used in fastening padding, by using more 



160 CHIROPODY MANUAL. 

adhesive strip across the bottom and around on each 
side of the foot. Padding is more liable to be dis- 
turbed on the bottom of the foot than on bunions, and 
sufficient adhesive must be used to keep it in place. 

CHILBLAINS. 

Chilblains and frost bites of long standing can be 
entirely eradicated by constant bathing in witch hazel 
or a solution as given in the following pages. 

Fresh frost bites or open sores caused from chil- 
blains should be treated first with antiseptics and later 
with the solutions, applied frequently. 

ARTICLES USED IN CHIROPODY. 

Absorbent Cotton, Chamois, Carbolic Acid, 

Iodine, Oxide of Zinc, Monsell's Solution, 

Colodion, Vaseline, Sub-Sulphate of 

Peroxide of Hy- Tannin, Iron, 

drogen, Adhesive Strip, 

RECIPES FOR CHIROPODY. 

For Perspiring Feet. 
i oz. Tannin in one quart of water. Apply with 
sponge. 

For Soft Corns. 
Vaseline and Oxide of Zinc. Equal parts. 

For Ingrown Toe Nails. 
Monsell's Solution. Prepared at any drug store. 



CHIROPODY MANUAL. 161 

For Sterilizing Instruments. 
10 per cent, solution of carbolic acid. 

Antiseptic, 
Peroxide of Hydrogen is used for antiseptic, also to 
stop bleeding. Sub-sulphate of iron is also used to stop 
bleeding, where bleeding is profuse. 
For Bunions. 

Iodine, 1 dr.; Belladonna, 1 dr. 

For Foot Powder. 
Flower of Sulphur, 2 oz.; Boracic Acid, 4 oz. ; Tal- 
cum, 6 oz. ; makes a good foot powder and corrects 
bad odor. 

Corn Salve. 

1 oz. Beeswax, 2 oz. Sweet Oil, 12 drops of Turpen- 
tine. Heat Oil and Wax, add Turpentine when almost 
cold. 

For Chilblains. 

1 pt. Vinegar, 1 pt. Alcohol, 1 oz. Muriate of Am- 
monia. 



162 CHIROPODY MANUAL. 

POULTICE FOR REMOVING INFLAMMATION. 

Use a small sack, partly filled with hops, boiled a 
short time in hot water. Apply to affected part for re- 
movincr inflammation. 



FLAX SEED POULTICE. 

Sufficient amount of linseed meal boiled in water to 
thicken; stir well while boiling. Put in cloth and apply 
to affected part as hot as possible. 

LOTION FOR ULCERS AND CHILBLAINS. 

Spirits of rosemary 1 dr. 

Laudanum 1 dr. 

Distilled lead water 1 oz. 

Applv with bandages. 

OINTMENT FOR ULCERS. 

Almond oil 1 dr. 

Boracic acid 1 dr. 

White wax 1 dr. 

Vaseline 1 oz. 

Mix and apply. 



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